Factory Style Z/28 Stripes, Analyze My Plan


Promoted Users
The trend today seems to be to clear over stripes and bury the edge. But I have a high end 68 Z/28 and want the stripes to be factory appearing, so on top with "feelable" edges.

Debating between single stage or BC/CC for the main body color (Matador Red) , the my Dover White singe stage stripes get applied.

My question is about prepping the finished body color for adhesion of the stripes. I think I should take the body all the way thru cut and buff to the final steps then mask and scuff the stripe area with 400 or 600 and use a pad on the pin strip area the best I can without destroying my tape edges. I am afraid If I apply the stripes before the body finishing steps I'll never be able to polish the narrow red strip between the pin stripe and main stripe without damaging the white stripes, if that makes sense. Maybe over thinking this but basically can I get adequate adhesion if I polish the body first? Random examples.

stripe layout 1.jpg
stripe layout 2.jpg
stripe layout 3.jpg
If you do it as described, I would not use paper. Instead of 400 or 600, I would use a maroon scotchbrite pad, preferably one that is slightly used, and sanding paste. Would work much better if you have already taped off than using paper. You would normally use a grey scotchbrite with sanding paste, but seeing you are applying SS white, the maroon would give you a better scuff. Important IMO though to use the sanding paste with the pad, not just the pad alone.
If I'm following correctly you want to essentially do your color sanding on the red, then mask off and scuff the area to be painted white correct? Then come back and buff? Are you planning on buffing the white as well? Color sanding, then buffing it may mess with the edges. Trying to work in your line of thinking, I would buff out everything on the red, tape it off, do my scuffing, then you don't have to worry about buffing the small area of red. When you apply the SS white, use some retarder in it to allow you to shoot it slick. After everything cures for several (or more) days, then tape off the line areas so that if you have to cut and buff the white, you aren't getting into the edges. You would not cut or buff the thin white areas, just tape them off. That way you won't disturb the edges any.
Just an aside, I don't like the blue 3M fine line as I find it hard to make straight lines with it because it stretches. The regular fine line is what I use. If you have never done this before, make sure that when you untape, you don't wait long, and as you untape, pull the tape back over on itself. You get the cleanest line that way. If you can mask it so that all the tape is exposed and easily removed (think taping backwards with the actual fine line the last thing you do) then you want to remove the tape shortly after you finish spraying. Don't wait for it to dry/cure. Doing it like that will give you the cleanest lines. Untaping after it's set up is harder and can result in pulling the edges and tearing.
One more thing. Doing it as I described I think that scuffing it dry would be the best idea. Using paste and doing it wet may disturb the tape.
I do SS panels-stripes on commercial trucks that are new or close to new often. I tape them out with the 3M blue (no.?) first then I scuff thoroughly with the maroon Scotch Brite (aprx 320 grit?). Double clean with 710 & 700 before taping and after scuffing. Tack and spray the single stage. They come out as good as the finish is originally, IE all the factory paint has orange peel. Edges super sharp and of course you can feel them.
Last edited:
I was planning to buff the red first. Then paint the stripes and only buff the stripes if necessary so the tips mentioned are perfect