Filler thickness?

J

jtfx6552

Member
Since there isn't a filler section of this website (understandable since SPI isn't in the filler business) I decided to post this here as the SPI forums are full of peop;le that give the best advice...

Most of the panels on my car are new so I won't have any thick filler , EXCEPT, over where the factory lead joints originally were at the top of the 1/4 where it meets the roof, and at the back of the 1/4 where it meets the trunk transition panel. I don't have the skills of Rusty and Brian to weld patches over those areas like they did on their 65-66 fastback. The filler I have been using is Rage Gold Extreme, could I use it over those joints?

Should I get something different for there, or do I need to try to weld something in?
Here is the trunk transition to 1/4 joint:
IMG_2389.jpg

IMG_2392.jpg


IMG_2391.jpg


IMG_2390.jpg


Here is the roof joint before I plug welded (while test fitting the rear window):
IMG_2175.jpg
 
Never put filler over an open edge seam. You can use filler in those areas at that thickness with no problem at all but the edge of the seam needs to be welded solid first. It would be best to weld the edge up, grind the welds down as needed, and clean it really well-sandblasting would be optimum, then shoot two coats of epoxy primer and let it set overnight, next day apply more filler than you think you'll need and sand off the excess.
 
After the seam is fully welded, would Duraglass be a good choice? I see there are a variety of Go To fillers for different occasions. I'll be doing something very similar soon. Good topic.
 
I've used Everglass for the first application over seams like that for years always thinking it offered strength and a little better moisture resistance in the event there's an unseen pinhole in my weld but it's probably overkill.
 
Everglass won't hurt. Like Bob, I have used it and still use it on weld seams, no real good reason other than an extra bit of insurance. It might be a holdover from when we used filler on bare metal.

BTW, I switched from Duraglass to Everglass about 7 years ago, back then at least it was clear that Everglass adhered better due to the inclusion of ZNX-7. Now that Evercoat's patent on that substance has expired, it may be that Duraglass has improved, but I haven't tried it in a long time. Back when I switched, there was a clear difference.
 
Do you guys think the chopped glass products could grow in the sun on something like that? I am really apprehnsive about using that stuff after it happened to me.
 
When used on weak panels like the middle of the hood or roof and if it's on the thick side it can show some distortion when it expands in the sun. Those Mustang seams wouldn't be a problem though.
 
I've never had a problem with it, other than Duraglass failing to adhere well as mentioned earlier. But the only places I have ever used it are on weld seams and panel edges, never out in the middle of a flat panel. Well take that back, I have used it around hood scoops before.
 
Do you suppose a seam like the OP's could be sealed up with panel adhesive, then sanded and epoxied before filler? The bond line would be under the filler and I don't think it would show.
 
I'm curious about the reason to weld the whole edge. Is that to keep moisture from getting to the filler from the back side, or just to stabilize the edge against movement under the filler?
 
jtfx6552;21129 said:
I'm curious about the reason to weld the whole edge. Is that to keep moisture from getting to the filler from the back side, or just to stabilize the edge against movement under the filler?
Click to expand...

All the above...if you will just weld the edge tight, grind and or blast to perfectly clean, you can use regular filler on top of the epoxy...no special filler needed
 
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