Final 400 sanding

JimKueneman

JimKueneman

Mopar Nut
Do you typically use a block for that final sanding to apply base? After using Dean's flat hard blocks up to now it is very easy to burn through a couple coats of epoxy with them. All I am sanding out now the texture of the final 2 epoxy coats with some guide coat. I just need to sand enough to get the guide coat to go away. so maybe I am sanding off 1/2 a coat... I was starting to use a flexible 3M squeegee that I use a lot when cutting and buffing. It fits in the palm of my hand and I just wrap paper around it. Is that enough to see in the final result?
 
Final sand when I'm doing it wet, I like using a 11" durablock (skinny one) with a piece of .030 lexan glued to the bottom of it. After gluing I true it on some thick acrylic to know it is nice and flat. That is my go to for final sand. Smaller areas I use smaller pieces of acrylic or lexan. Usually 1/16 thick or the thin lexan for very curved areas.
I used to use just the durablock and the hand pad durablock or a motorguard one that was more flexible. Still use the motorguard in a few places but I notice a difference in flatness when using the modified durablock and thin acrylic/lexan for finishing.
 
Dean's blocks have that acrylic (I think) base on them so your block sanding during the 2k primer stages should get the car nice and straight, especially if you are using guide coat when needed.

For the finish sanding, I apply guide coat and then use the soft block and wet sand just to remove the guide coat. It doesn't take much pressure at all and you shouldn't have to over sand.

My eyesight isn't what it used to be either so the guide coat makes things much easier to see.
 
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It's redundant to use a hard block needed for flattening when sanding with a
fine grit like 400, fine grits don't level a surface, coarse grits do.
400 grit is for removing scratches left from the leveling of more aggressive grits.
Use a soft block for fine grits and a hard block for coarse grits, like 220 and below.
Most people think you need a long hard block to get a straight finish, you don't.
All you need is a coarse enough grit then even a shorter soft block can get it straight.
I never use a block longer than 11", but I sand my primer with 150 grit first, then 600
both with a guide coat.
 
jcclark said:
It's redundant to use a hard block needed for flattening when sanding with a
fine grit like 400, fine grits don't level a surface, coarse grits do.
400 grit is for removing scratches left from the leveling of more aggressive grits.
Use a soft block for fine grits and a hard block for coarse grits, like 220 and below.
Most people think you need a long hard block to get a straight finish, you don't.
All you need is a coarse enough grit then even a shorter soft block can get it straight.
I never use a block longer than 11", but I sand my primer with 150 grit first, then 600
both with a guide coat.
Click to expand...
It may be slightly redundant but IMO it doesn't hurt anything especially for noobs. I have never liked doing a final sand with a hand block over an entire car. Just what I was shown and taught many years ago. We used to use paint sticks taped together many years ago. You aren't blocking with one, just sanding, but you are still leveling better and more evenly than if you were using a softer block. Just my preference. :)

If I was doing collision work or something that was a quick hitter then I would not use the method I described. But for something nice that's how I like to finish it.
 
The block below is in the queue for next round of products. The idea is that it would be useful for final sanding situations just like @JimKueneman described.
Small, flexible hand sanding block with hand grip.
May put very thin polycarbonate on the base.

thin.png


thin block 360 spin still.JPG
 
Dean Jenkins said:
The block below is in the queue for next round of products. The idea is that it would be useful for final sanding situations just like @JimKueneman described.
Small, flexible hand sanding block with hand grip.
May put very thin polycarbonate on the base.

View attachment 28738

View attachment 28739
Click to expand...
Yes…I’d like to have one too!
The 24 did help define things I missed, but that’s the purpose….to show me how good I am not.
 
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