Gray 2k regular vs black 2k regular build primers

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FlameOut

I know this is gonna sound weird, but is there a difference other than color? I have some of both, the gray and black, and the black is just a nightmare to spray and the gray sprays beautifully. With the black, it is so thick and even after I spray, I can wipe my hand over the panel and it feels rough and I have black residue on my hand. With the gray, if feels smooth, and no transfer to my hand. Is it possible the black to 2K regular primer might be mislabeled and is actually high build? I would assume the high build is thicker? Stirring the gallon can of gray, the stir stick will slowly fall to the side and lean against the edge of the can, with the black, it will stay standing straight, like it's in a vat of tar

I was spraying both with the same gun and same pressure and settings
 
Add a little reducer, we had the black a little thicker because the color did not want to hide 100% on first coat even thought the mills were building, we went to a different carbon and solved the issue and it self-corrected the viscosity issue, now should be very close to the gray. Basically it will take 5% reducer to spray like the gray with your batch, if you want it to lay slicker.
 
Barry, don't know if this has been brought up before but often a question I mean to ask... with turbo primer mixed 4-1-1 what temp reducer will provide the quickest full cure or would it matter. I know with urethane clear slower reducers offer a slower initial cure but an overall faster full cure just wondering if the same scenario applied to turbo primer.
 
Bob,
All things being equal, say 75 degrees and using a 75 degree reducer, anything will speed up because of the reduction in solids, now the flash will be longer on certain products.
Now if at 75 you use an 85 degree reducer then it would slow down across the board.
Example @70 degrees and 35% Humidity mixed 4:1 the Turbo has a 73 minute gel time, adding 25% reducer that goes up to around 90 minutes..

With all this said total time to dry sand may be a 30 minute difference, total cure depending what was done may be 60 minute difference at best the exception would be say it is 60 and you used a slow reducer, that could really slow down as the tail solvents would take a long time to get out.

Had a case about two years ago where a shop ran short of reducer and all he had was the very slow, temp in shop was about 55, it took about 2 full days to kick off.
 
Thanks for the info and tips on the black 2k. I added the reducer (went about 10-15% though, the 5% still was giving me slight problems) and it sprayed very nicely and looked much better on my panels. Since I added the reducer, will that also work as a sealer, or should I also lay down a coat of 2K sealer before my basecoat?
 
Barry;n74648 said:
Bob,
All things being equal, say 75 degrees and using a 75 degree reducer, anything will speed up because of the reduction in solids, now the flash will be longer on certain products.
Now if at 75 you use an 85 degree reducer then it would slow down across the board.
Example @70 degrees and 35% Humidity mixed 4:1 the Turbo has a 73 minute gel time, adding 25% reducer that goes up to around 90 minutes..

With all this said total time to dry sand may be a 30 minute difference, total cure depending what was done may be 60 minute difference at best the exception would be say it is 60 and you used a slow reducer, that could really slow down as the tail solvents would take a long time to get out.

Had a case about two years ago where a shop ran short of reducer and all he had was the very slow, temp in shop was about 55, it took about 2 full days to kick off.
Click to expand...

Thanks Barry! makes sense
 
FlameOut;n74661 said:
Thanks for the info and tips on the black 2k. I added the reducer (went about 10-15% though, the 5% still was giving me slight problems) and it sprayed very nicely and looked much better on my panels. Since I added the reducer, will that also work as a sealer, or should I also lay down a coat of 2K sealer before my basecoat?
Click to expand...

Your choice, you can base over the primer or use a 2K urethane sealer or epoxy sealer, if high end job I would use the epoxy.
 
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