If you hit metal or epoxy, those would have to be high spots. Right? Try putting a straight edge on it and see how it rocks on those places. Tap down the high spots then coat any bare metal with epoxy before using a catalized glazing putty like Icing, Metalglaze, or Dolphin Glaze. Once you think those areas are good, then 2k the whole thing and block again to make sure.
D
dkr
strum456;12027 said:
One of the bare metal spots was on an edge. I think I just knocked it down a bit too hard.
The other one, I had a hard time telling with running my fingers over it. I will check again tomorrow when the sun comes back up.
For spraying the epoxy do I need to rough up the bare metal with 80 grit and featheredge or can I just prep the surface and shoot it?
Is it necessary to 2K the whole thing and reblock? I'm not arguing here -- just trying to save a bit of time and materials.
Thanks for the response.
Dkr.
Try putting a thin rag over your hand when you're feeling the spot. For rub throughs, I don't ever worry about resanding bare metal with 80 (it is already scuffed in my opinion). I would not worry one bit about just spraying epoxy where you need it...no need to do the whole panel. With 2k, finish up those spots, like I said. When you think it is good with the 180, you would probably want to respray the whole thing and reblock with something like 320.
D
dkr
I was able to sand about half the car today. I just wanted to make sure I have the game plan right.
So, I've already put guidecoat on and am sanding with 180. I am hammering in the high spots taken to bare metal, respraying with epoxy, and adding body filler. The parts I sanded down to epoxy get body filler added. Then, I sand the body filler down with 150 grit and 2K the whole panel.
Following that, more guidecoat followed by sanding with 400 grit and then wet sanding with 600 grit and 800 - 1500 if any scratches remain.
Is this a good plan?
Dkr.
So, I've already put guidecoat on and am sanding with 180. I am hammering in the high spots taken to bare metal, respraying with epoxy, and adding body filler. The parts I sanded down to epoxy get body filler added. Then, I sand the body filler down with 150 grit and 2K the whole panel.
Following that, more guidecoat followed by sanding with 400 grit and then wet sanding with 600 grit and 800 - 1500 if any scratches remain.
Is this a good plan?
Dkr.
Are you starting your filler with 80 then finishing it with 150? If not, 150 is too fine for cutting filler IMHO. It is best to finish your filler out with 150 or 180, but you should cut it with some lower grit like 80. After you spray 2k over your body work, go over it with 150 or 180 until your guidecoat blocks evenly. Then spray another coat of 2k and use 320 or 400. After that, there is no need to sand finer than 600.
D
dkr
strum456;12130 said:
Yes, that is what I am planning to do. I have some Nitro-Stan glazing putty. I thought it might be a little easier to use as there is no hardener, but it takes a lot longer to dry.
Dkr.
crashtech
Combo Man & Mod
Save the Nitro-Stan for used car lot work. Polyester putties will last and hold up without shrinking, Nitro-Stan lacquer putty will not. The only thing it has going for it is it sands like butter.
Every time I sand into old bodywork that has red putty on it, it is almost always cracked and chipped and generally crappy looking.
Every time I sand into old bodywork that has red putty on it, it is almost always cracked and chipped and generally crappy looking.
B
Bob Hollinshead
Toss the nitro-stan-it will fail, there's no reason to mix that 50 year old technology with these quality epoxy, polyester, and urethane products you've been using.
D
dkr
So, it looks like I'm on my final lap here. I'm block sanding for the second time wet with 400/600. I sprayed cheap white spray paint and took about 90% of it down with the 400 and the remainder with the 600. I still see scratches even after the 600 but they are very fine scratches. Are these acceptable or should I see no scratches when I'm done? Also, I took a few small areas on my fender down to epoxy. Do I need to 2K the whole fender and start over or is this a paintable surface? Here are some pics of the fender:
Thanks,
Dkr.
Thanks,
Dkr.