Help with gaps

T

Tungsten

Promoted Users
2007 classic Chevrolet 2500 crew. Diesel.
Good truck with 180k miles. Was in an accident and fixed poorly. I purchased the truck for a good price because of this shoty work. May be hard to see in pics but gap between door and cab corner gets much bigger at the bottom now I know these doors don’t have adjustable. Only maybe with heat and a big hammer. lol.
So my plan was maybe to cut a vertical line down the middle then hopefully be able to bend the left side closer to the door then patch and weld the gap left over. Thinking more I may not be able to move the corner after cutting so maybe need to cut in two places? Not sure. Not looking for perfection just get it so it’s not so noticeable. Thanks for any help.
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dhutton01 said:
I’m a hack but I would drive the wheels off it as is. Fixing that and then matching the paint would not be worth it to me. :)

Don
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The truck came with some paint that was used in the repair.So one less thing to get.Im driving her hard dont worry,the LBZ has some punch.
 
Are you talking about working on the door edge or the cab corner? I agree drive it until it drops. If you really want to fix it be prepared for a surprise when you cut into the cab corner.
 
I guess it’s hard to see in pics. Gap at the bottom between door and cab corner is good then it grows as you go up then just after half way it’s good again. Cab corner was replaced just not welded in straight. Hope that helps.
 
Tungsten said:
I guess it’s hard to see in pics. Gap at the bottom between door and cab corner is good then it grows as you go up then just after half way it’s good again. Cab corner was replaced just not welded in straight. Hope that helps.
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Well if that's the case, cut it out and reweld it straight. It obviously bothers you or you wouldn't have started a thread about it.
 
Are we talking about the door edge to panel gap width consistency or panel flush alignment. The gap doesn’t look that bad but maybe the panels are not aligned flush?

Don
 
Those aftermarket cab corners are poor quality and fit awful so you in for a lot of work if you tear in to this. Drive the wheels off it.
 
dhutton01 said:
Are we talking about the door edge to panel gap width consistency or panel flush alignment. The gap doesn’t look that bad but maybe the panels are not aligned flush?

Don
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Its both,cab corner is in from the door and the gap.3/8 at bottom of door,10" up its 9/16..If there was a way to move the door that would help,but Im not sure how.
 
Those trucks never fit well. Since it's not adjustable with both hinges welded on. When I was at gm we had an alignment tool you shut the door on and just bent it up or down. Other way is closing a socket in the hinge that needs to go back but that can push the door out.

I would remove the striker and see where the door is naturally sitting. Maybe the striker is pulling it up. May be able to use it to pull it down a tiny bit. That striker may need a hammer to move when it's loose.
 
I did full inner and outer rockers and cab corners on my 2001 Sierra extended cab. I had the front and rear doors on and off probably 4 times before I got an acceptable fit. If I were you I would either learn to live with it or replace that cab corner entirely. There's a lot going on in that area, I would find it tough to fix one thing without making another worse.
 
Glen440 said:
Those trucks never fit well. Since it's not adjustable with both hinges welded on. When I was at gm we had an alignment tool you shut the door on and just bent it up or down. Other way is closing a socket in the hinge that needs to go back but that can push the door out.

I would remove the striker and see where the door is naturally sitting. Maybe the striker is pulling it up. May be able to use it to pull it down a tiny bit. That striker may need a hammer to move when it's loose.
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This alignment tool,sounds interesting ?
Im seeing like a huge clamp that grabs the B pillar and twist it with a long bar. moving the back door back a little Probably wouldn't work.
 
Glen440 said:
Those trucks never fit well. Since it's not adjustable with both hinges welded on. When I was at gm we had an alignment tool you shut the door on and just bent it up or down. Other way is closing a socket in the hinge that needs to go back but that can push the door out.

I would remove the striker and see where the door is naturally sitting. Maybe the striker is pulling it up. May be able to use it to pull it down a tiny bit. That striker may need a hammer to move when it's loose.
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Tried the socket thing on the top hinge and it worked well,kinda twists the hinge on the pillar side so it closed the gap some and brought the door down.The body line lines up better now.
 
Glad it worked out.

That is how we fix doors that get over extended. Can do both hinges and get the fender gap back. Sometimes there are unwanted consequences. I usually try a little and see what it does.
 
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