Hey Barry K. One more black Spi torture test please.

[wyldman]

Hey Barry K. As you clearly know I consider your epoxy the best on the planet even better than the old DP-40 that did hold the title.
How about, just for sheets and geegles, doing your 40hour salt test with ospho prepped like deadbodyman does by sanding with 80 then 180 first, then spraying three coats of spi black epoxy like he does and swears by it dont have to have surface rust but scuffing if it does then scuffing it off first with a red scuff pad and ospho then wiping all the excess off with dry paper lint free towels then letting it dry for at least 24 hours. Before epoxy
Let's put this baby to bed once and for all. Once ospho has dried water has no effect on it other than reapplying more ospho then washing it off before it starts drying which would be almost impossible to do and would defeat the whole purpose of using it to remove rust in the first place.
Aka, braindeadbodyman. I know your busy but maybe you've already done it.

 

[shine]

not this shit again. take this bs to autobody forum where it belongs.

Notice! any new painters ignore this guy and this thread.

 

[crashtech]

I'm going to let @Barry deal with this one, unless it gets too far out of hand.

 

[Barry]

Salt tests are outdated and useless.
Reasons.
People would test without cross-hatching.
People would water down the % of salt.
I have not done it in years, so how would I do it?
I could do tests on the same thing and make it 700 or 10,000 hours with trickery.
So, it proves nothing.

 

[Chris_Hamilton]

Once ospho has dried water has no effect on it other than reapplying more ospho then washing it off before it starts drying which would be almost impossible to do and would defeat the whole purpose of using it to remove rust in the first place.

Not impossible. That is how you neutralize Ospho so that you can apply epoxy. Get it wet with product, keep it wet for 10-15 minutes and rinse. Any flash rust that forms is not an issue.

OP your whole post confuses me. What are you asking for? A salt test, or a test with a panel coated with Ospho but not neutralized then sprayed with epoxy? Epoxy will fail with an acid film. It won;t adhere. Very confusing what you are actually trying to say or asking.

 

[Lizer]

I had a director at work that would want us to do all these experiments that did nothing to advance the bottom line, which was move the project to a product.

They were purely academic pursuits to answer questions that didn’t matter.

That anecdote is very relevant here.

 

[Barry]

The last I did on the epoxy was about a year ago, and I did this test in my play garage at home for safety.
Buy a new metal panel from Home Depot
Prep with 700 and 180 by hand and spray three coats on one side of the panel
Fill a 5-gallon bucket a little more than halfway with dot three brake fluid.
Every week, I inspect the panel at about the two-month mark; the brake fluid will start to creep under the edge of the epoxy, that and my 4-inch thick flex test is all I need to know.
Over the years, I have done a lot of other off-the-wall tests with the epoxy and clears, just for my knowledge.
I'm weird that way, but they are helpful to me.

Another best test I did was with two new panels from HD: grind one with a 24-grit grinder and apply an even coat of body filler.
The 2nd-panel sand with 80 grit DA and 700 spray two coats of epoxy, and the next day, spread an even coat of filler over the epoxy.
Both panels are about 4"x10, and let set a couple of weeks.
Then I bend each panel, trying to make both ends touch; the filler over 24 grit will crack, and pop off the filer over the epoxy will not even crack.

The problems with most tests. I see people do that each product needs different amounts of cure time or X amount of mils to be accurate

 

[JimKueneman]

The last I did on the epoxy was about a year ago, and I did this test in my play garage at home for safety.
Buy a new metal panel from Home Depot
Prep with 700 and 180 by hand and spray three coats on one side of the panel
Fill a 5-gallon bucket a little more than halfway with dot three brake fluid.
Every week, I inspect the panel at about the two-month mark; the brake fluid will start to creep under the edge of the epoxy, that and my 4-inch thick flex test is all I need to know.
Over the years, I have done a lot of other off-the-wall tests with the epoxy and clears, just for my knowledge.
I'm weird that way, but they are helpful to me.

Another best test I did was with two new panels from HD: grind one with a 24-grit grinder and apply an even coat of body filler.
The 2nd-panel sand with 80 grit DA and 700 spray two coats of epoxy, and the next day, spread an even coat of filler over the epoxy.
Both panels are about 4"x10, and let set a couple of weeks.
Then I bend each panel, trying to make both ends touch; the filler over 24 grit will crack, and pop off the filer over the epoxy will not even crack.

The problems with most tests. I see people do that each product needs different amounts of cure time or X amount of mils to be accurate

Yep I saw that on the Coronet.. leaking brake line and it just started to creep under the epoxy and lifted it. Same for rear end diff lube.