how are my procedure steps?

S

Steves69LS3

hello.
over this winter i have taken on the restoration of a friends cobra replica car.
after some fiber glass repair and panel adjustment, i started the priming process
first i have sprayed 2 coats of epoxy
did my filler work mostly on door edges
sprayed 2 coats of slick sand and blocked that to 180
sprayed another 2 coats of slick sand and blocked as follows
180
220
320
please let me know if my plan for the final steps is sufficient

instead of using epoxy as a sealer, i am going to spray 2 full strength coats on the car and wet sand it to 400 grit then spray my color and clear within the 7 day window

I am going with SPI medium red and universal clear

thank you all again
 
Since you are spraying base right over sanded epoxy, you may want to consider sanding to 600. More importantly, you should spray base within 24 hours, or spray a reduced sealer coat a couple hours before base. The 7 day window is for filler or primer. Basecoat is kind of a weak link, so it requires special care.
 
I have also taken a liking to spraying the epoxy as a sealer before basecoat, I've had really good luck doing this..
 
Chad.S;n71650 said:
I have also taken a liking to spraying the epoxy as a sealer before basecoat, I've had really good luck doing this..
Click to expand...


Speaking of this...... do you guys always reduce 1:1:1? And if so, I'm curious what you guys do if you get some dust or trash in the epoxy sealer, how do you go about fixing it?

I've had to bust out the heat gun and do some 'speeding things up' with it to be able to sand a couple of imperfections on the epoxy, it was a fine light silver that would show EVERYTHING.

If I'm spraying a solid color then I don't really fuss about it and just go over it with the basecoat and bury it with the clearcoat.


I don't mean to hijack this post, but it might be relevant to the OP as well.
 
Ok so should i block one more time with 400 then just seal and color?? Its spi medium red. Solid color
Thank you
 
Steve -Do your two full strength coats like you said, wet sand with 400 really well than go over it with 600,clean, spray sealer coat , base,clear.

Jorge- you would be able to lightly wet sand trash out is sealer after an hour or so just be gentle.
 
Airbrusharthart;n71654 said:
Steve -Do your two full strength coats like you said, wet sand with 400 really well than go over it with 600,clean, spray sealer coat , base,

Maybe i should just block out the car to 600 then just spray sealer. I dont think i have enough epoxy for the two coats plus sealer

Can i jump to 600 from 320 or should i do 400-600?

Im in a big time crunch
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How are you guide coating the slick sand? Unless you have a lot of experience and you are comfortable with your procedure, I would say a final blocking on epoxy, like you planned would be a much safer bet to make sure you don't miss scratches, gouges, and low spots. The shine of SPI epoxy will tell you a lot, before it is too late.

If I were you, I would spay one coat of epoxy. Block with 320. Then you have two options.

1. You could go over the 320 scratches with 400 lightly, seal and paint.

2. If there are a lot of rub throughs, you could spray another coat of epoxy, then sand it with 400 and 600. If using option 2, I would reduce the second appliaction of epoxy 10-20 percent, so it goes on thin and smooth. You could paint over the 600 scratches within 24 hours, or spray another coat of epoxy as sealer that is reduced 1:1:1.
 
strum456 said:
How are you guide coating the slick sand? Unless you have a lot of experience and you are comfortable with your procedure, I would say a final blocking on epoxy, like you planned would be a much safer bet to make sure you don't miss scratches, gouges, and low spots. The shine of SPI epoxy will tell you a lot, before it is too late.

If I were you, I would spay one coat of epoxy. Block with 320. Then you have two options.

1. You could go over the 320 scratches with 400 lightly, seal and paint.

2. If there are a lot of rub throughs, you could spray another coat of epoxy, then sand it with 400 and 600. If using option 2, I would reduce the second appliaction of epoxy 10-20 percent, so it goes on thin and smooth. You could paint over the 600 scratches within 24 hours, or spray another coat of epoxy as sealer that is reduced 1:1:1.
Click to expand...
Im using guide coat on the slick sand
All of my highs and lows are taken care of. Its just down to the best steps to take to color and clear
 
Better off doing 400 then 600. If your running short on materials you can get away with one coat of epoxy. Minor sand throughs are ok if your gong to seal it.
 
Tech sheet also says 2000 series basecoat will fill 400 scratches
 
Yes it will fill the 400 scratches if you sanded it uniform and perfect without any deeper scratches ( you can also start buffing at 1500 but that doesn't mean its the best way) 600would be be better, an then sealer to fill minor imperfection,color uniformity,and most of all better adhesion.
 
Jorge M.;n71652 said:
Speaking of this...... do you guys always reduce 1:1:1? And if so, I'm curious what you guys do if you get some dust or trash in the epoxy sealer, how do you go about fixing it?

I've had to bust out the heat gun and do some 'speeding things up' with it to be able to sand a couple of imperfections on the epoxy, it was a fine light silver that would show EVERYTHING.

If I'm spraying a solid color then I don't really fuss about it and just go over it with the basecoat and bury it with the clearcoat.


I don't mean to hijack this post, but it might be relevant to the OP as well.
Click to expand...

I reduce 1-1-1, shoot my epoxy sealer, then a coat of base and let it set up enough to denib at that point, then rock on with more base, then clear. A piece of 1000 grit and solvent base wax and grease remover instead of water works good for denibbing spots.
 
Bob Hollinshead;n71694 said:
I reduce 1-1-1, shoot my epoxy sealer, then a coat of base and let it set up enough to denib at that point, then rock on with more base, then clear. A piece of 1000 grit and solvent base wax and grease remover instead of water works good for denibbing spots.
Click to expand...

Bob, what's the waiting time between the coat of epoxy sealer and the first coat of basecoat? I always wait around 15 minutes for collision work.

And also, on average how long do you have to wait before you can denib the basecoat? I know there's no single answer for this one because of many variables, but I'm curious as to the
time window to work with the epoxy as a sealer.

Thanks for all the help and further clarification on this, really appreciate it.

Jorge.
 
Right-many variables, I haven't had any problems shooting base over epoxy in 15 minutes when mixed as a sealer. Time to denib is also a variable-things that will affect it is: induction time for the epoxy, temps, reducer selection, and application thickness of the base. If everything is going as planned for me I'll be denibbing in an hour. On really important jobs where I'm looking for the best results...I shoot my clear the next day anyway so time is never really an issue-it all takes as long as it takes.
 
If you let your epoxy induce for a good time it sure shortens the wait to denib time, I've mixed it up 12hrs to a day in advance numerous times and it has always worked good.
 
So my final plan is to block wirh 600 then seal an color. Thanks for sending me in the right direction!
 
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