How not to spray "tiger stripe" metallic ...

the op isn't talking about just spraying regular metallic.....that isn't the problem here......the problem is mixing it in with clear and the gun isn't set properly. it isn't the manufacturer of the gun. i dont believe he is trying to cut it with clear to make it easier to spray, either

again, the make of the gun isn't the problem here.
 
Use Intercoat and activate it, I've used it for pearls and the larger Ice pearls and candies with good results-just like spraying basecoat, use slow reducer and walk the whole length of the car double coating with lighter coats and 50% overlap. Your ratio of pearl to clear could also be too strong causing stripes. The object is to put it on slowly so you have more control. I've stacked 7 coats of activated intercoat reduced 150% over 3 coats of activated base and topcoated with UV clear with absolutely no chipping problems-the intercoat is a very durable product for a bc. Activating it is key for durability when you're putting a lot of layers on. Works great for candies also. Give it some time to release solvents before applying the topcoat clear-overnight is great.
I don't use my LPH for metalics-it just blew the paint apart too much when I tried it-But... Jeremy has good LPH luck with lower pressure so that might just be the key for metalic basecoats. My trusty Sata Jet90 works fine for metalics.
 
KevinH;5957 said:
Sik
Is there something wrong with Paint with Pearl products? THANKS!
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i dont know the longevity of these products.. my thing is they should be more specific and recommend not using top clear but a clear base coat.. controlling pearl in clear can be a bitch.. not worth the time or extra material cost.
 
Bob Hollinshead;5959 said:
Use Intercoat and activate it, I've used it for pearls and the larger Ice pearls and candies with good results-just like spraying basecoat, use slow reducer and walk the whole length of the car double coating with lighter coats and 50% overlap. Your ratio of pearl to clear could also be too strong causing stripes. The object is to put it on slowly so you have more control. I've stacked 7 coats of activated intercoat reduced 150% over 3 coats of activated base and topcoated with UV clear with absolutely no chipping problems-the intercoat is a very durable product for a bc. Activating it is key for durability when you're putting a lot of layers on. Works great for candies also. Give it some time to release solvents before applying the topcoat clear-overnight is great.
I don't use my LPH for metalics-it just blew the paint apart too much when I tried it-But... Jeremy has good LPH luck with lower pressure so that might just be the key for metalic basecoats. My trusty Sata Jet90 works fine for metalics.
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i totally agree with u on overnite on multiple layers.. if i have 3 coats of base.. 30 mins.. 4 to 5 an hour/hour half.. more then that over nite. i always overreduce intercoat.. any brand.. some activated some not.
 
C_REX;5921 said:
Sik which Sata did you buy, and to the op save yourself the trouble and SPI intercoat, awesome product and shop simplify life a bit
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3k hvlp with 1.3.

dont know y the hype around here with the lph400.. the super nova and super nova hybrid flat blow it out the water.
 
I'd like to try the Nova, the LPH sure works nice though. When they make a Nova SS I'll buy one.
 
Bob Hollinshead;5991 said:
I'd like to try the Nova, the LPH sure works nice though. When they make a Nova SS I'll buy one.
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lol the hybrid>ss the one and only time a hybrid will ever be on top..lol
 
I was supposed to pick up 3k rp 1.3 yesterday for 4 bills but guy didnt show, so might pick up a new one $650cash deal next week
 
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