How to fix a botched edge?

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dukess396

I managed to biff the new paint on the Chevelle. I was changing the oil at work, and while it was up on the lift, I opened the door. The door edge rubbed the fender and chipped off a good amount of paint. The chip goes down to the epoxy, which still looks good...lol. I'm in the process of realigning the fender, but I'm not sure how to go about fixing the paint. I used epoxy, reg 2k, PPG DBU and Universal. door resize.jpg
 
Double check your gaps and adjust if needed. Then you have two choices. Touch up with a brush or blend the two panels and clear. Shouldn't take much material to blend that. You can also mix your reduced base after you get coverage 1:1 with an intercoat clear to improve the ease of the blend and will add to your overall sprayable material. Hope this helps. Is that model unibody? I can't remember. If so consider sub frame connectors that weld in.
 
Bondoskimmer;18126 said:
Double check your gaps and adjust if needed. Then you have two choices. Touch up with a brush or blend the two panels and clear. Shouldn't take much material to blend that. You can also mix your reduced base after you get coverage 1:1 with an intercoat clear to improve the ease of the blend and will add to your overall sprayable material. Hope this helps. Is that model unibody? I can't remember. If so consider sub frame connectors that weld in.
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It is a full frame car
 
Good to hear you have left over paint!!! Judging from the photos it appears the fender isn't flush with the door? These old cars were usually assembled at the factory to have the fender out from the door by .050-.100" depending on model. You can usually have all the clearance you'll need if the gaps are set at 3/16". I'd definately move the fender out if it isn't flush and maybe forward just a hair if needed. Keep your repair area as small as possible, feather the broken paint edge with 320 or 400 grit, use either polyester glaze or primer to build up the damaged area if needed, sand your primer with 600 grit so the repair area is now flush with the rest of the paint on the door. If done right your repair area shouldn't extend more than 2" into the door, you can use masking tape to help protect the undamaged portion of the door during the sanding steps if need be. When the repair is done use some scuff paste and a grey scotchbrite and scuff the entire door. Mask off the rest of the car and shoot one wet coat of intercoat clear over the complete door, apply some color only over the repair area-adjust your gun down for a small pattern, lower pressure, and small amount of material-or use a touchup gun. You don't want a full pattern wide open setting like you used when painting the car originally-keep it dialed down for more control but keep in mind the color needs to go on like it did when the car was originally sprayed, not to wet and not dry. Once you shoot two or three coats over the repair area and full coverage is achieved then blend it back into the door some, don't use a fast reducer-you want it to go on light and flash off smooth. Most painters woud now clear the door but if you're worried about how the blend will look you can test this for consistency with the rest of the panel by shooting a coat of intercoat clear over the complete panel-one medium coat as you don't want it so wet that the metalics move. If done properly with the left over paint it should match just fine and you won't have to blend into the fender.
 
Thanks Bob, I really appreciate the detailed response. Not sure about the intercoat. I can spray it over the existing good paint, and clear over the intercoat without adding more color? I was in a thread some time ago about intercoat clear and never really figured out how it works. Besides the obvious panel alignment issue, one of the culprits that contributed to the chip was the fact I had too much material built up on the edge of the door. I have too much on all panel edges actually. It was my first paint job, I have since learned better ways to spray the car so each panel doesn't have so much overlap.
 
dukess396;18156 said:
Not sure about the intercoat. I can spray it over the existing good paint, and clear over the intercoat without adding more color? I was in a thread some time ago about intercoat clear and never really figured out how it works.
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Yes you can spray the intercoat over the existing good paint after it is scuffed. And you can clear over the intercoat without adding more color. Think of intercoat as being basecoat that is clear. When the door is scuffed you shoot a coat of the intercoat over the panel to provide a good surface for the color to blend into. This way you don't end up with a drysprayed edge around your blend, adhesion is better, and the blend is easier to do.
 
Yeah, intercoat (colorless base) helps metallic orientation on blends. If you notice when you are painting a metallic, the first coat rarely goes on quite right. It almost always takes at least two to get the metallic to lay right, especially with certain colors.

If you think about it, without the use of intercoat, the edge of your basecoat would always be the first coat, as it is being fanned out onto sanded clear only. The intercoat essentially acts as the first coat of base, allowing the next coats (the blend) to lay out properly.
 
crashtech;18165 said:
Yeah, intercoat (colorless base) helps metallic orientation on blends. If you notice when you are painting a metallic, the first coat rarely goes on quite right. It almost always takes at least two to get the metallic to lay right, especially with certain colors.

If you think about it, without the use of intercoat, the edge of your basecoat would always be the first coat, as it is being fanned out onto sanded clear only. The intercoat essentially acts as the first coat of base, allowing the next coats (the blend) to lay out properly.
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That's a really good explanation!
 
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