No because then you have contamination from whatever base you’re using. The base simply accepts hydrogen ions and reduces pH. It doesn’t contribute to removal of an acid film at all. The film needs an effective SOLVENT to remove it. Itself or water would be the best solvent in this case. It needs to be rehydrated by more acid (for some reason water doesn't rehydrate it well), but once rehydrated, water (not WGR or another chemical solvent uncapable of further solubilizing it) would be the best solvent to carry it away.Given the difficulty of rinsing Ospho off, would it not help to neutralize it with a base before rinsing?
Thanks for your thorough and very informative comments. It occurs to me from digesting your statements that if we took the word ACID out of ACID FILM about 98% of the confusion could be eliminated.I was referring to dried, but all the same, you then have residue of whatever base you used on the metal which is still undesirable. I don't know what you'd gain by neutralizing the pH if the material itself is still there.
Obviously water seems to be effective since many have done so without issue, but if I lived in a vacuum and had no knowledge of the outside world, intuitively I probably would have used Dawn and water to wash it off while still wet.
"Why would acid in anything else be different?"Those of us old enough to remember the car batteries that weren't sealed also remember the holes left in our clothes and skin from the acid that got on us. Why would acid in anything else be different?
Good point. My question was relating to the following. The parts were sandblasted. however I notice, in some hard to reach places, there is some pitting. Based on this, I'm asking the pro's (Barry) and the experienced the question.Not a criticism directed at anyone, more just an observation. For the life of me I don't understand why so many folks want to use epoxy, but don't want to follow the directions for it's use. There are no shortcuts to quality.