Info/help needed on Cut and Buff

HarleyJack

HarleyJack

J.O.A.T.
I have searched high and low and did not find any specific post on paint correction with cut and buff. I pieced a lot of member Jim C's stuff together from many many posts but I still have a few questions. This is on my Ford hood with SPI Single Stage Red in my original post on reducing a few weeks ago.

I followed most of the "protocol" to cut it. I changed some brands, and grits, but nothing wild. The hood looks good. I went out to 5000, not 8000. I feel I am ready for buffing part now. bit I am a bit confused on the process and the materials required.

Question 1: Why use a wool pad if we have sanded to 5-8k? I thought the wool pad purpose was to cut? Am I missing something. i mainly want to make certain, that even after sanding to high grits we still starting back to zero on the buffing step1 with a wool pad?

Question 2: What type and brand compounds and at when to use them? Pads? I did find the Lake Country is the consensus on the wool pad.

Question 3: Any tips, washing, cleaning between steps, etc.

Question 4: I plan on using my PC RA https://www.portercable.com/product/7346sp/6-variable-speed-random-orbit-sander-polishing-pad . I can't slow it down as much as I would like, but I know that going into it.....mistake? Buy a dedicated tool? My thinking is the RA action is more forgiving. I may be way off base here.

Forgive me as I have never done this nor seen it done.
 
First off you need to use a rotary if you are planning to buff. A RO ( random orbital) buffer is designed for detailing not removing color sanding scratches. You need the aggressiveness of the rotary to remove sanding scratches. A RO buffer would be very hard and time consuming to remove scratches if you could at all.

With modern paint pads don't actually cut the paint. That term is a holdover from the lacquer days of long ago. When you see the term cutting, just associate your first step or more aggressive pad. It "cuts" the sanding scratches in association with the right compound. Wool is generally used because even with taking it out with Trizact to 5000 or 8000 your surface still has scratches in it that are deeper than 5000 or 8000. Try doing a panel using the same compound using a typical foam compound pad and beside it a wool compound pad. It will be evident why wool is generally recommended. Wool will get the scratches out quicker and more completely than a foam pad.

Some of us like the 3D wool pad (me included) others like LC. Get a pad rated for compounding.

Several different ways to go about it. My process is using the 3D wool pad, with 3D ACA500 or ACA510, then a black foam pad (3D or other)and ACA520 for polishing. Then if necessary a final buff with 3M Ultrafina and the Ultrafina pad to remove any microswirls/holograms.

Use the pad type recommended by the manufacturer of the compounds and polish you are using.

Keep searching here as all your questions have been answered multiple times.
 
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Is there any 2 step process for cutting and polishing a black car WITHOUT leaving swirl marks in full sun? Is it possible to use a rotary for the first step and then switch to a random orbital? these random orbital do not leave swirl marks but will they get all the cutting scratches out?
 
I use 3D ACA 510 on their yellow wool pad followed by their 520 on foam. Rotary, no swirl marks. I do quite a few black cars… :)

What are you using?

Don
 
Not any help but I must say I switched to the ACA stuff for cutting and buffing based on this forum recommendations.
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I use both 3m white compond
dhutton01 said:
I use 3D ACA 510 on their yellow wool pad followed by their 520 on foam. Rotary, no swirl marks. I do quite a few black cars… :)

What are you using?

Don
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I'll take your work for it and examine my process more closely. If I could get it down to 2 steps from 3m's 3 steps that would be great!.... I have the 3m lineup white, black, blue. as well as aca 510 and 520. I use a double sided 3m wool pad for cut and the black or blue 3m foam for the polish.
 
Here’s a thread I had started regarding the final Cut & Buff where member responses provided exactly the info and detail I needed.

Final sanding, buffer selection, pads, compounds, and Information Overload….

I haven’t had a chance to get started on the cut and buff after completing the spray of the single-stage on my F100 a few months ago. Looks like I’ll hit it in the spring when I get back to our place in N GA. In the mean time I have been reading and studying the old cut and buff threads on the...
www.spiuserforum.com
 
I haven't tried the ACA products but have had good success with the Meguiars M-100 Professional compound and twisted wool pad. As Chris and others have stated, a rotary buffer is what you need. I purchased a DeWalt 7" with a variable speed trigger which I like because it allows me to start out slow while spreading the compound with out slinging it all over the shop.

Call me lazy if you like but I generally only cut to 2000 grit before buffing.
For black, you really need to take the extra steps of using finish and polishing grade compounds. I like Chemical Guys for step two and Menzerna 3800 for the final polishing.

This is the front fender of a Harley Davidson Ultra Classic that I painted.

Front Fender Buffed.JPG
 
Too add on to this......I got the hood cut and buffed from my original post above....what I learned.......use the same brand, or something someone on here has used that worked...on your sanding disc at least for the first two steps. I used 3M 1000, then an off brand 1500.....I have a few sanding marks left from the DA(not squirls) on the large flat surfaces....after all was said and done it is a grit difference in the paper...you can feel it plain as day and I should have caught that going in. The 2,3,5 or so after will not cut it out. Lesson learned. I recommend sticky to a name brand at least for the cut 1000 and cut 1500. Removes a variable at an important point. Beyond that it is not as "delicate".

On the buff side, TCP wool worked ok(more of a one use deal for me)....no name foam pads but used the proper "cut" style but I did go with M100, Menzerna 2500, then 3800. These compounds/polishes are all high quality imo. The outcome was eye opening minus the few imperfections from sanding. I ran the buffer on the lowest speed for the most part, took my time, and stayed very deliberate on form. No swirls at all, On the sides of this hood you can see my neighbors brick work in his house at approximately 40 yards.....I did not know you could get a gloss like that.....and just like that I now critique every paint job I see and my work will never been good enough again..:D:D Really was impressed with the compounds!
 
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moby said:
I use both 3m white compond


I'll take your work for it and examine my process more closely. If I could get it down to 2 steps from 3m's 3 steps that would be great!.... I have the 3m lineup white, black, blue. as well as aca 510 and 520. I use a double sided 3m wool pad for cut and the black or blue 3m foam for the polish.
Click to expand...
3M compounds are not highly regarded here. There are much better options.
 
don , do you have a wool pad recommendation for a mini polisher? 3 inch? looking for solution to use on my milwaukee mini 3 inch and ACA 500. for denib spot polishing.
 
RosharonRooster said:
don , do you have a wool pad recommendation for a mini polisher? 3 inch? looking for solution to use on my milwaukee mini 3 inch and ACA 500. for denib spot polishing.
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No but I recently tried the 3D purple spider cut foam pad and it works well with compound. I don’t know what they are made of but it really works well. Just need to lube it a little with chemical guys pad lube. I found them cheaper on eBay.

3dproducts.com

3.5

3D Pad System – Keeping it simple… One of the most confusing topics when you’re first getting into machine polishing is trying to figure out which pads to buy? There are hundreds of different types of pads, sizes of pads, colors of pads and even shapes of pads. Here at 3D we keep it simple. For...
3dproducts.com 3dproducts.com
 
I've used these mini pads on a 3" dynabrade rotary. They work well.
www.autogeek.net

3.5 Inch DuroWool 100 Percent Twisted Wool Cutting Pad 2 Pack

3.5 inch DuroWool 100% Twisted Wool Cutting Pad, 2 Pack - A professional grade wool pad for your 2 7/8 inch backing plate! Lake Countrys Twisted Wool Cutting Pad is available in a 3.5 inch diameter, perfect for a 2 7/8 inch hook & loop backing ...
www.autogeek.net www.autogeek.net
These work good too, wool and foam, not as aggressive as pure wool.
www.autogeek.net

Foamed Wool 3.5 Inch Buffing And Polishing Pad

Foamed Wool 3.5 inch Buffing & Polishing Pad - Why choose between wool and foam? This pad gives you both. The Foamed Wool 3.5 inch Buffing/Polishing Pad features patented nanofoam particles, which encapsulate the base of the wool fibers. The foam ...
www.autogeek.net www.autogeek.net
 
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