Inner Door Skin Prep

rustover

rustover

Member
Guys, What's the preferred method of prep for a restoration on an inner door skin panel. These are old gm panels. Not sure if I should just scuff the e coat or remove it. I was planning on applying two coats of epoxy and then using some bedliner in the middle for sound deadening. Not sure what to do with the inner flange edge that I will be bending over??. I would think the e coat or epoxy would just break once I starting hammering.



Thanks, Russ
 
Yes the E-coat will fracture when you hammer the skin on, I would definately remove it in the affected area. If you bond it on you'll need to grind the area for prep anyway, if welding just remove the coating. Test fit your door handle and lock cylinder also-sometimes the stampings at the end of the run had some accuracy problems and better to find any issues early.
 
I'd scuff and give it 2 coats of epoxy, I have seen many oem replacement panels that are rusty after a couple years in the weather when left in the ecoat.
 
Thanks for the replies guys. Bob, good idea on checking the handle and lock. I will definitely take the e-coat off of the flange. Depending on how easy it comes off, I may just take the whole inside down to the metal before epoxy. Bob, I read on an older thread that you tape the seams and flood them with epoxy. I'm guessing this would coat the bare metal flange and keep it from rusting. I like the idea of the panel bond, but I'm afraid it would affect the panel if I need to weld up any gap issues.

Any tips on folding over the edge? I know to start slow and I want the edge to fold and not roll around the door frame.
 
You'll need a few different hammer shapes, one with a good crown for concave areas and one with a low crown for flat areas. People have different ways of hammering the skin on that work for them, some start with a rubber coated block, some position the door on the stand skin up, some skin down... I put the door on the stand skin down and slowly work the flange over-a lot of small hits are way better than fewer and harder hits. Here's the key to not making distortion on the exterior-do not hold your block flat to the skin, instead you want to tip the block just slightly from being flat so the contact area is right at the bend of the flange. Make sure your blocks and hammers are smooth or any irregularities will just transfer to the sheetmetal.
 
Thanks for the advice guys. Bob I did check the door handle and lock cylinder for fitment. There was a small dent that would not let the lock cylinder sit flush on the drivers side. I was able to remedy the problem with a hammer and dolly using just a few light taps. No other problems as I can tell. I did double check my keys. The car was in pieces when I purchased it. Took me a few minutes to figure out the square key works the locks.





I been buying body work tools for the last few years. I got some nice Martin hammers for Christmas this year. I have some regular dollies and some soft dollies. I also have a leather bag filled with shot. Has anybody ever used one of these shot bags? Here is a pic of the dollies.

 
Good tools will make your work easier and last near a life time. But what I'm really impressed by, is your floor! Is your garage really that clean? Lol
 
Fireboat, I had a time with the floor. When it was poured, the surface cracked in multi places. I had to repair all those spots with an epoxy resin. I painted it with epoxy to give it a uniform look. Its nice because it cleans up easy, downside is it take certain precautions to work in. It wouldn't be practical if my shop was an everyday work area. As a hobbyist I really enjoy it. When welding I use several of welding blankets. When I paint, I'm planning on putting down some Bondcote material.
 
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