Introduction and a few questions

R

Radius

Hi Everyone!

A quick introduction: I'm a hobbyist and most of what I do is restore pinball playfields along with the occasional motorcycle and car project. I generally do small panels, bumpers, etc. I've never done an overall although I'd like to at some point.

The only products I have ever used are dupont products - mainly because they are easily available locally. However I am honestly tired of the cost, lack of support and "attitude" of dupont now a days.

For example, I have a gallon of HC-7600S urethane clear that is discontinued as is the activator. Dupont refuses to recommend a current activator I can use with this clear. Heck, maybe they really don't have something that will work.

Does anyone have a recommendation for an activator that I can use? I don't care whether it's a dupont product or not. I just want to use up my $200 gallon of clear since I can't afford to be throwing that kind of money away. I really need help with this.

Once that's used up I am moving on, and I am 90% sure I will be using SPI products but I do have some questions about which product to use.

As I mentioned, my main use of clears is in pinball machine playfield restoration. I repair and touch up the playfield using acrylic paints, then clear coat. I will generally lay down 2 fairly heavy coats, wait 24 hours then wetsand. After another 24 hours I will lay down another 2 coats, etc, until the playfield is as flat as I can get it. Then I let it cure for 6 months before waxing and reassembling.

The clear I need has to be hard enough to resist "dimpling" yet not so hard as to crack. A pinball is a 1 1/16" metal ball flying around inside the machine and when it hits the playfield it will make a "dimple" (like a golf ball) in the surface of the playfield if it's too soft after curing.

It's also important that the clear have an extreme gloss yet buff out easily after wet sanding.

Honestly my technique for clearing is poor but I get away with it since a playfield is flat and I don't have to worry about vertical surfaces. I would be nice to find a "user friendly" clear that helped me avoid runs and orange peel when I work on the occasional bumper cover, spoiler, etc.

Knowing this info, which SPI clear would you guys recommend for my application? I got extremely good results with the HC-7600S I was using.

Thanks,
Michael
 
For the 7600, you can use any of the 5100 activators or the 2100 activators.

Also either of those clears will work as good or way better then what you are using now.
 
Barryk;15537 said:
For the 7600, you can use any of the 5100 activators or the 2100 activators.

Also either of those clears will work as good or way better then what you are using now.

Sweet! Thank you! For the 7600 which activator would work best? The 5100 or 2100? Or does it not matter?

So now I just need to find out where I can get SPI products in Northwest Washington state.

Thanks,
Michael
 
Either one will be an improvement, so don't really matter.
We will need to ship you direct as we do not have a jobber there.

Both will be a little slower on the flash time.
 
Barryk;15541 said:
Either one will be an improvement, so don't really matter.
We will need to ship you direct as we do not have a jobber there.

Both will be a little slower on the flash time.

Thanks again Barry..

I just got off the phone with.. umm.. arrgh! Forgot his name! Sorry... :(

Anyway, I just ordered a quart of 2100 fast activator. The customer service and the information was terrific!

THIS and cost is the reason why I want to switch!

You guys have just made another SPI customer! :)

Michael
 
Radius...I have been in the automotive paint business since 1990...or so...not full time untill 1999. I started my own business back in 2001. I have delt with all the paint distributors. They are all a joke with few exceptions. SPI is A giant exception. They aren't paying me in any way BTW...although if they want I'll except some free product...LOL. Any way...for the most part the paint distributors treat you like you are putting them out by doing business with them...and they sure as H&^LL don't know anything. It really is a joke...all painters know more than the distributors... that's been my experience. SPI is different and sure does make life easier for those of us that do this for a living and want to learn and become better at their trade! I will do business with SPI from now on if for no other reason besides there customer service. But the truth is I was sold on their product...their customer service keeps me coming back!!!!


BTW thank you Barry, Andy and all!
 
Clausen;15566 said:
Radius...I have been in the automotive paint business since 1990...or so...not full time untill 1999. I started my own business back in 2001. I have delt with all the paint distributors. They are all a joke with few exceptions. SPI is A giant exception. They aren't paying me in any way BTW...although if they want I'll except some free product...LOL. Any way...for the most part the paint distributors treat you like you are putting them out by doing business with them...and they sure as H&^LL don't know anything. It really is a joke...all painters know more than the distributors... that's been my experience. SPI is different and sure does make life easier for those of us that do this for a living and want to learn and become better at their trade! I will do business with SPI from now on if for no other reason besides there customer service. But the truth is I was sold on their product...their customer service keeps me coming back!!!!


BTW thank you Barry, Andy and all!

I don't do a whole lot of volume, but it really is appreciated to get good advice and recommendations - especially for a novice like myself.

Speaking of which..

I usually let my first coat of clear flash for 20-30 min before applying the second coat when working with my playfields and small parts with 7600.

Now that I am using a different activator, should I change how long I let it flash between applying a second coat?

Thanks,
Michael
 
Barry would be the one to answer that. Since I work outside...on-site painter...I usually spray a single or double wet coat since I can't spray over clear that has sat outside for 5 mins let alone 20-30 mins...too much trash, bugs etc. LOL.
 
Clausen;15629 said:
Barry would be the one to answer that. Since I work outside...on-site painter...I usually spray a single or double wet coat since I can't spray over clear that has sat outside for 5 mins let alone 20-30 mins...too much trash, bugs etc. LOL.

Okay.. Well hopefully Barry will have the time to check back on this thread. :)

Michael
 
I saw in one post he made that he never recommends less than 30 mins flash. I know if you don't wait long enough you can really screw up the first coat. The thing you don't want is to re-wet the solvents from the first coat. Those solvents need to flash off enough so new solvent can be reintroduced to the finish. I really don't think as long as you don't wait a few days you have to worry. And then its no problem as long as you scuff first. Have you thought about doing a test panel? Also, I would base my flash time of the speed activator your using. In other words...if your using fast activator and its 50- 60 degrees out you should wait at least 30 mins I would think. If using slow at that temp its gonna take a lot longer to flash. Hope this helps. I would treat whatever activator Barry recommended the same as the activator you were using before...if they are compatible they should react the same way!....I'm trying...LOL
 
Clausen;15669 said:
I saw in one post he made that he never recommends less than 30 mins flash. I know if you don't wait long enough you can really screw up the first coat. The thing you don't want is to re-wet the solvents from the first coat. Those solvents need to flash off enough so new solvent can be reintroduced to the finish. I really don't think as long as you don't wait a few days you have to worry. And then its no problem as long as you scuff first. Have you thought about doing a test panel? Also, I would base my flash time of the speed activator your using. In other words...if your using fast activator and its 50- 60 degrees out you should wait at least 30 mins I would think. If using slow at that temp its gonna take a lot longer to flash. Hope this helps. I would treat whatever activator Barry recommended the same as the activator you were using before...if they are compatible they should react the same way!....I'm trying...LOL

The datasheet for hc7600S says that flash time between coats is 3-5 min. But it also says the clear can be recoated up to 24 hours. After 24 hours it much be scuffed with 1200-1500 grit.

I think that waiting 30 min to let the first coat flash off more would help me to reduce runs and get a good wet second coat. So I think that's what I'm going to do this time around. :)

Michael
 
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