Just how critical is the 60° cutoff point?

You know, there are lots of ways to heat a panel, especially after the paint
has set up enough.
And here once again..........the "Electric Blanket"
(cured that roof right out)
DSC02576.jpg
 
that blanket is right up there with jersey gloves :) guys working in a garage need to heed this tip. no mater how warm you get the shop your still screwed if the metal is 50 .
 
I never even thought of using an electric blanket to heat the metal. Great idea!
 
Hey.... you should see what Jim does with kitchen utinsils. LOL

And he can't understand why his wife follows him around when he comes in the house.

Aaron
 
I have a question about epoxy and temp. I know that you're supposed to have the metal and the epoxy at a certain temp, but, what if I'm doing something as involved as what Rusty does and it will sit in epoxy for say a few months. then I go back and sand that down then reply epoxy or even high build, will that be ok? I'm in north Fl and right now it's getting into freezing temps and I want to sand blast and start working on my car.
Also can after I sandblast can I just clean the metal with W&G remover then spray or should I sand with 80 or 180?
 
Using sand will take the place of sanding, if you want to skip that step.

Epoxy can set as long as you want, it is nothing more then an E-Coat that comes on new panels you buy and can be treated the same.
 
Sorry to bring up an old thread, but if the temps in my garage and metal are at 70 and I spray epoxy with the fan on drawing in cooler air from outside (about 50-55 in nyc), will it affect the curing process? Also, how flammable are the vapors from the epoxy or any of the coatings for that matter? Only way I can think of heating the incoming air reasonably fast is with propane heater or kerosene.
 
Propane heater works great, let run an hour to warm up metal, then shut off and spray epoxy, do not worry about the cool air at this point.
When done spraying epoxy air out to get rid of fumes, then run propane for 2-4 hours to start the epoxy curing, then your good to go.

ALL paint fumes are explosive.
 
thanks again for the advice. hopefully I'll be able to spray when it's still this warm out.
 
i really battled the cold spraying epoxy on motorcycle parts this winter. i warmed parts, gun and induced epoxy up too. epoxy sprays much smoother when warm as well...
 
What is a good way to warm epoxy, and how warm should it be?

Sometimes I have trouble getting it to go through my 1.4 tip, and other times it is fine. Maybe it is the temperature.

I always end up with a some orange peel in my epoxy too. Thinner helps, but I never get "lglass-like" results. Is it the temp?

Yes, I follow Barrys instructions for adjusting my gun.
 
i am pumping it through my lph80 with a 1.0 tip. in my experience temp makes a huge difference with epoxy and clear. cooler=thicker, warmer=thinner. i sit my activator and can of epoxy in the sun until warm or sit it on top of a electric oil circulated heater, and shoot quickly before temps go down . did i read here somewhere that someone heats theirs up to 120 degrees?
 
I'm trying my best to get my spray setup ready before we start dropping temperatures.
I really, really want to get my cab protected with epoxy before we go into another winter.

And then I plan on working on removable panels, fenders, doors, and such through the winter.

So please keep the tips and ideas coming for spraying when outside temperatures drop.

Thanks
 
Lost, really no need to beat yourself to death rushing for weather.

You can rent or buy pretty cheap a salamander heater (kerosene) and as simple as running it in the garage an hour to preheat, shutting off and after done with the epoxy and clearing out the fumes, starting it again and leave it run for about four hours.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top