Lint Nibs in Epoxy

C

cstrom72

I had my doors for the 67 Mustang sand blasted. After a very thorough cleaning and degreasing I used a red Scotchbrite pad with air to make sure I got any lint off from the paper towels (used the Scotts brand blue towel) and went on to carefully tack cloth and use slight air pressure from the gun to make sure nothing was on before I laid down the first coat of Epoxy. Well after I gave it a 45 minute wait to dry I went back in to find lint looking/dust nibs all over.

Its a homemade paint booth but I have it sealed off really well and this is the first time I used it so there couldn't have been any debris in the booth. Im thinking I didn't get all the lint from the paper towels off.

What's the next step to fix? should I get some sand paper on a soft block and knock them down?
This is the first time I have had anything sandblasted. I always used a DA with 80 grit before and never had this issue- I am 99.999% positive the grit from the sand blast held on to some paper towel that I couldn't really see.

maybe ill wait till tomorrow and 80 grit DA it...


Thanks everyone
 
Its tough to get all the lint from a sandblasted surface. I also use a scotch brite pad and a lot of air as I am going over the surface and still have missed some. I would probably just knock the nibs down with a soft block and a piece of 180. It shouldn't take much. Then clean again and re-coat. It should be a lot easier to clean this go around since you already have one coat down.
 
Thanks for the reply-

I still have the hood and deck lid to do and they are still in a blasted state. What can I do to not have this issue when I spray those tomorrow? Im going to DA with a 80 grit the tops for sure but since the undersides with all the bracing and curves whats the best way to get those? 80grit by hand just to knock it down a little?
 
The da will work great for the top side. As far as the underneath, I have used 80 grit by hand and you could see the scratches after I applied the epoxy. You could save the 80 grit paper from the top and use it for the bottom and it should work. Just take some extra time and use a lot of air and you will be fine.
 
i would invest in a nice vinyl paint suit. most of the lint you thought you cleaned is actually coming from you. best thing to do is wear a paint suit and tack off the front of your body and arms and 5ft of your air line
 
Noted. I'm going to grab a suit this morning. Do you think on the fresh sandblasted metal I could lightly use some 180 grit to knock down the finish of the sandblast?
 
freshly sandblasted metal is ideal for first primer coats unless there are some spots that are clumpy then i would just knock those areas down
 
Cool- Thanks- is there anything better than the red Scotchbrite pads for removing lint? I have the 3M brand and they seems too fall apart and leave debris as well...?
 
I use norton maroon pads. They seem to be tighter than the 3m. Plus they are scribed down the middle so you can easily pull them in half.
 
I've switched to Norton as well, they seem to hold up better and cut longer, and priced better too. win,win,win!
 
Alright guys ive been painting away and after removing all the dust/junk with 180 grit on the outside of the doors I re shot the doors and they turned out great. I also shot the hood, both valences and stone guard.
Once the outside shells are cured I will flip over and shoot the inside with epoxy reduced about 50%. Should I stick with two coats still and what would the flash time be with the reduced epoxy? Using it as a sealer the book states 2-18 hours before a base coat. I wont be painting the inside of the doors red for a while- wondering about scuffing the reduced epoxy in the future with the grain that's in the metal?

Just got the car and the front fenders back today. Need to clean the sand out of the car and shoot epoxy in the next day or two- still a little unsure on how im going to go about doing that. I really don't want to use water.... Pics coming
 
here- 01.jpg

02.jpg

03.jpg

04.jpg

05.jpg

06.jpg

07.jpg

08.jpg

09.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top