My First time Painting Epoxy

T

toofast415

Hello all,

I've searched for this very topic and found a few. But I cant seem to find a topic that is similar to mine. Most of you guys are going from epoxy straight to either base or 2k. Since my car was "naked" I didn't want it exposed too long.

I shot my 65 Mustang on Sat that I got back from the media blaster. I DA'd the entire car with 80 and scotch brite (red) the smaller areas. I used 700 and let it flash for 30 mins. I applied my first light coat in a small area, let it flash for about 15mins and shot another coat with black epoxy and went on perfect with a few fish eyes here and there (probably not cleaned thorough)

Sunday I'm looking at the paint and see that the paint has some dirt in the epoxy. I've read that I can wet sand with 220 on another link here, but my first question in how long should I let it cure before I sand? Do I not worry about it for now and do the necessary sheet metal/body filler work then spray two more coats after body filler? I am aware of the 7 day window which I will not be within anyhow.

I plan on doing the metal work/panel replacements, body filler, block/sand, 2k, then epoxy, then base. I've read the perfect paint job steps and other topics on this forum. I know I could probably skip the 2k but what are the pros/cons?

Sorry for all the redundent questions and thanks in advance for you feedback. I'm a newbie spraying in a makeshift spray booth under my carport.

Thanks a million guys I've learned a lot on here!!
 
If you have the metal coated in epoxy I wouldn't worry about finish right now. Just do your metal work first and when done scuff and clean the entire car and shoot more epoxy. Generally letting it set overnight is sufficient for sanding but temperature plays a big roll in this. If your shop gets below 50 degrees at night it could stop the curing process.
Being an older car I would plan on either using a polyester primer after the epoxy or doing a few rounds of 2k and block sanding with guide coat in order to get it nice and straight.
 
[QUOTE='68 Coronet R/T;25224]If you have the metal coated in epoxy I wouldn't worry about finish right now. Just do your metal work first and when done scuff and clean the entire car and shoot more epoxy. Generally letting it set overnight is sufficient for sanding but temperature plays a big roll in this. If your shop gets below 50 degrees at night it could stop the curing process.
Being an older car I would plan on either using a polyester primer after the epoxy or doing a few rounds of 2k and block sanding with guide coat in order to get it nice and straight.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the response! I'll take your advice. Stupid question number uhhh I think 5? But whats the upside of using poly primer rather than 2k high build for example? Again, thank you for the advice/tips!
 
Polyester primer (like SlickSand or Featherfill G2) are more like a spray on filler. You mix the correct amount of hardener in and it will set up (kick) in about 25 - 30 minutes. It is supposed to shrink less than regular 2k and it has good build. You need to be ready to spray before mixing and be ready to clean your gun immediately after spraying.
I like to spray poly primer over black epoxy and then block sand using a coarse grit until I start seeing black. From there 3 coats of regular 2k, guide coat and block sand. You may need to repeat this part more than once to get things truly straight but generally the poly primer fills enough to eliminate the need for multiple 2k sessions.
 
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