"pock maks' in epoxy finish????

M

mikhett

Ive been spraying SPI products for the last 7 years,Ive never seen this.the deck lid was finished with reg 2k yellow p/s,the deck lid was smooth finished with 400 dry.I sprayed i coat of white epoxy primer mixed 1:1.i let it induce for a .5 hour.some parts of the deck lid have little craters like pock marks.I have never encountered this.spray gun is my trusty astro qul with 1.5 tip psi was 32 @ the gun 7 inch pattern and went on wet.ANY ideas what caused this.thanks
 
Yes, sand it flat and respray going a little lighter with the material next time. I ran into this a few times and a light sanding followed by a recoat will fix it right up. On this subject though, I do seem to have more trouble with the white doing this than the gray or black. Is there a difference in the primers (other than color of course) or is it a simple case of operator failure due to the white being a bit more transparent than the gray and black? Thanks
Kelly
 
if you hammer the first coat it will gas out . this causes the pot marks. i double coat. meaning i make a pass down then back up. like the old enamel days. this seems to stop the problem .
 
You probably have your gun adjusted the same as always for primer. I have noticed that I get that when I get a little careless when spraying, by getting too close, getting the top or bottom of the spray too heavy, or linger too long in one spot. For me its just a matter of concentrating on the application.
 
I have never had it happen with Glasurit, RM, Transtar or PPG. I do prefer SPI epoxy for most applications, accept for initial bare metal. I like the Glasurit chromated epoxy, it's tough as nails, some rugged stuff, I have loaded it on and never got a pock mark. I do however find SPI epoxy more user friendly in terms of a sealer and over polyester and urethane primers.
 
it's in application not product. dplf is epoxy in name only.
i have done epoxy only now for close to 10 years with no problems.

- - - Updated - - -

it's in application not product. dplf is epoxy in name only.
i have done epoxy only now for close to 10 years with no problems.
 
Application is very important as is product contents. I have found SPI and Glasurit to be excellent. It seems that the chromated Glasurit is super durable and has excellent corrosion resistance and you can hardly scratch it off the surface. It's thicker, smelly and takes forever to mix so it's not perfect, but what is? I like that SPI epoxy comes in various colors and is easy to use, just have to be careful on application. I don't like how the chromated Glasurit is only in a green color. I have found I can load on the SPI epoxy after the first initial coat. I usually only experience the sensitivity during the first coat, after that I have loaded it on with no problems.
 
I've had it happen with SW Jet Glo Epoxy (non chromate) on a few occasions. It's only available in green too as it's an aircraft coating. We do have the chromated version but I couldn't say whether it will pock or not, we have no booth and I don't want to spray chromated if I don't have to.
 
I'm sure the chromated stuff is deadly, but it does work well. Although you can't beat the service and assistance with SPI products.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top