PPG basecoat

K

Karmin

I'm probably going to use PPG basecoat under the UC since the shop is 10 mins from. So which basecoat should I use? They have DBU and DBC. If it's DBC...should I use the DX57 hardener? Also, according to the "The Perfect Paint Job" pdf, I should wait overnite before clearing (by overnite...does it mean 24 hrs?). However the tech sheets for PPG say to sand the base before clearing if after 24 hours. I'll be painting the car Guards Red (a solid color) with most panels off the car. Will sanding the base affect the color?

TIA
Karmin
 
dbc or global.. only activate base on tri stages or candies. sand the base.. but reapply before clear.
 
Thanks SK. By sanding the base and reapply, do you mean to spray another 2 coats of base (red is expensive ;))? Also, on another post, crashtech recommended adding activator if painting PUR bumpers. Is there a downside to using activator if it's not tri stage or candy? Reason I ask is if I do need the activator for the bumpers, I'll end up buying more activator than needed for just bumpers.
 
put a coat or 2 of dbc 500 and sand that.. not the base.. its cheaper then red.
 
I'll tell you what, out here in flyover country, the roads are all "chipsealed" and have a lot of loose sharp rocks, also from what they call "sand" put down when it snows, which is more often like a gravel. So we see what paints and techniques are resistant to chipping, because front ends are always getting beat up by stones.

I can tell you with certainty that though DBC is very user friendly and produces a great looking finish, ( I shot it for a couple of years) it is absolutely the most brittle basecoat that we we see, which I blame partly on shops not adding activator to the base.

You need not buy dedicated basecoat activator, let Barry advise you on how much clear activator to add to the base.

The downside to adding activator is that you must wait longer if you want to lay tape on it, and it also should be cleared no later than an overnight wait in most cases.
 
that's good to know about the brittleness. is there another company's base that you suggest? Andy had suggested I speak with Chad about purchasing from him. I've also heard good things about prospray? would you recommend spraying the whole car with the activator? if by chance (cross fingers) i spray the base with no problems, when's the earliest that I can shoot the UV clear? sorry for the bunch of questions.
 
i do not have any experience with ProSpray, but I would try it if I got the chance, based on the many recommendations it receives here.

ProSpray would also certainly benefit from the addition of a small amount of activator, and it won't hurt a thing to use it on the whole car, I always do as it increases adhesion and makes the paint tougher. You'll have to talk to Chad and/or Barry about how much to use.

Flash time before clear can range from a half hour to overnight, more is better unless you are in a hurry. Maximum recoat time is dictated by the type of base and whether it was activated.
 
Prospray gets a lot of good reviews here, DBC is good-just add one capfull of UV hardener to each mixed RTS quart of color. Global is really good if you can get it. DBU is also good and durable but the downside is the reactive reducer DRR that has a shelf life. 12 years ago the PPG reps were saying DBU would be phased out soon-still can't believe it's available-that may also factor in on your paint choice. The older metalics are still available in DBU if you're matching a factory color. If you end up saving some DBU color for repairs and end up not being able to buy DRR reducer then it's pretty much useless.
 
Thanks. I reason I ask about the activator is that I've read it can be a pain to fix if necessary when it's not activated. Painting a car is one thing, but I think a whole new skill set is needed when you do repairs especially when it comes to blending the new with the old.
 
Some colors are more forgiving when it comes to repairs, if you want good repairability stay away from tri-coats. I haven't had lifting problems in many years but some paint systems can definately be a lifting nightmare if the bc isn't activated. Most regular basecoats can be used with SPI reducers and this will also keep chances of lifting to a minimum, some other reducers out there are so harsh they'll fry a thin clearcoat edge every time.
 
Bob Hollinshead;6109 said:
Prospray gets a lot of good reviews here, DBC is good-just add one capfull of UV hardener to each mixed RTS quart of color. Global is really good if you can get it. DBU is also good and durable but the downside is the reactive reducer DRR that has a shelf life. 12 years ago the PPG reps were saying DBU would be phased out soon-still can't believe it's available-that may also factor in on your paint choice. The older metalics are still available in DBU if you're matching a factory color. If you end up saving some DBU color for repairs and end up not being able to buy DRR reducer then it's pretty much useless.
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drr is just reducer and about 1% hardner. u can reduce with dt reducer and activate.

hell ppg still has lacquers.. so im not surprised about dbu.
 
So the DBU base i still have can be sprayed using DT instead of DRR?
 
hey kenne we're close! i use the spi 0 voc reducer, not only becuase i trust spi products but because the price is way better than any local jobber last time i looked!
 
I used Prospray Factroy Pack Black on my 34 Chevy, and I like it. I used Prospray metallic fire red that Chad mixed for me on my wifes car. It worked well, also. I activated it with SPI UV Clear activator, according to the Prospray Tech Sheet. If I recall, it is 8 parts base to 9 parts reducer to 1 part activator 8:9:1. That's more actvator than most use, but I didn't have any problems.
 
form406;15488 said:
hey kenne we're close! i use the spi 0 voc reducer, not only becuase i trust spi products but because the price is way better than any local jobber last time i looked!
Click to expand...

and that will work with DBU!
 
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