Production of Speed Clear?

[oramac]

Hay all! Been quite a while since posting here, glad to see forum is alive and well!

Here's the questions and concerns, I am redoing the hood trunk lid, and fender tops on a 68 gto that was painted maybe late 80s , probably more like the mid 90s. These 2 panels will be stripped to bare metal, epoxies and hi build etc. Now initially we were convinced it was a lacquer job by the looks of it, small bubbling in clear, no cracking, etc. We then tested a hidden area with lacquer thinner and it immediately wrinkled, didn't wipe like lacquer does. So long story short, I'm convinced that the clear on top is acyric enamel. Now if we ever get the new base matched to existing color will them base those areas. Here's the question: the clear on the car is nice looking, but very thin looking like the clear lacquers looked or the Ppg Dau 82(iirc) acylic enamel.
So this brings us to which clear Production or Speed to use to duplicate that thin look. I've sprayed tons of universal on many cars, but never tried speed, euro or production, but think using Uv will look to thick or heavy compared to rest of car. Will be spraying without booth so cut and buff will be necessary probably spraying 3 coats for added thickness for color sanding. Any suggestions or ideas? Thanks!

 

[Barry]

I hope some of the pros here have better ideas as this is a tough one.

Two ideas to play with all I can come up with.
Mix UV 1.1 and then try different ratios of urethan reducer. (885 or 895) even if 65 temps.
Do tests starting at 10%, and 20%, compare, and then you will know where you should be and could be 15%.

I think 15% will be really close and use only the 4004-4 activator.

 

[RenewAP]

I only use Production clear on my quick projects, unless the need is there for the thickness and depth of the Universal. Straight 4-1, it lays down nice and buffs easy if needed. 3 coats of production, then a light cut-n-buff should give you the look you are going for, so long as the original Acrylic Enamel clear hasn't yellowed out some as it often did. The fresh area will look too "clean" if it has.

 

[Chris_Hamilton]

My thoughts would be to first do some test panels/sprayout card with the color and various reductions of Universal. Then compare them to the car. If you have UV on hand I don't see the need to purchase another clear like Speed or production.

You have got a tough job in that it's going to be hard to match the color exactly without blending. Hope you are mixing your own base and can adjust formulas.

Personally I think that Universal reduced 20-25% is going to be in the ballpark. 15% may work if you shoot just two coats. Also consider using some retarder to help it really glass out. Just going to take some testing to see. If it was something like DAU82 on there then that should be close to the look of DAU82. I kind of have my doubts that anything is going to match and be undetectable. Acceptable maybe but not perfect. It's asking a lot to panel paint and match that old of a finish.

 

[Chris_Hamilton]

Two coats then cut it with 3000/8000 Trizact may help it match better as well. IDK all just a guess until you do some test panels/sprayout cards.

DAU was a urethane clear not enamel BTW. So maybe that's not what's on there.

 

[crashtech]

I agree, DAU 82 would not wrinkle up after curing imo. That would be a synthetic or unactivated acrylic enamel possibly.

 

[oramac]

I hope some of the pros here have better ideas as this is a tough one.

Two ideas to play with all I can come up with.
Mix UV 1.1 and then try different ratios of urethan reducer. (885 or 895) even if 65 temps.
Do tests starting at 10%, and 20%, compare, and then you will know where you should be and could be 15%.

I think 15% will be really close and use only the 4004-4 activator.

Thanks Barry, yes will do some sprayouts to experiment with the correct look.

 

[oramac]

My thoughts would be to first do some test panels/sprayout card with the color and various reductions of Universal. Then compare them to the car. If you have UV on hand I don't see the need to purchase another clear like Speed or production.

You have got a tough job in that it's going to be hard to match the color exactly without blending. Hope you are mixing your own base and can adjust formulas.

Personally I think that Universal reduced 20-25% is going to be in the ballpark. 15% may work if you shoot just two coats. Also consider using some retarder to help it really glass out. Just going to take some testing to see. If it was something like DAU82 on there then that should be close to the look of DAU82. I kind of have my doubts that anything is going to match and be undetectable. Acceptable maybe but not perfect. It's asking a lot to panel paint and match that old of a finish.

Thanks