Rust Prevention After Removing Sound Deadener Inside Door

Machspeed

Machspeed

Member
So friends, after much contemplation, I removed the sound deadening material inside the doors of my 69 Mach 1. It was cracking and lifting, exposing the underlying metal to rust. I first attempted to scrap it out but that is impossible. Ultimately, I used dry ice and alcohol which worked out wonderfully. See pictures.

Now that I have all the sound deader removed, I need to prep the inside of the door panel and rust proof it. There's not much room in there to get a spray gun. Having said that, how would you approach this and what product would you use to do it with? I'd probably just spray it with epoxy if I could but hard to get in there. Please advise?
Sound Deadener 1.JPEGSound Deadener 2.JPEGSound Deadener 3.JPEGSound Deadener 4.JPEG
 
I used KB coatings but last batch was very thick and hard to spray. 3M was great but discontinued in quarts. Aerosol only now.

I am going to try SEM next time.
 
With the door off the car, I like to put as good a scratch on it as possible, then mix the epoxy, tape off as many holes as I can, then pour the epoxy in and roll the door around to get it everywhere. Definitely overkill, but thats what I like.
 
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Machspeed said:
Thank you, gentlemen! Never heard of cavity wax until this posting. Interesting product.
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FYI..... the tip of the wand (sprayhead) sprays 360 degrees. I believe it was designed that way because it's mostly used to protect the inside of box framerails. It can be used for other applications if protection is used for areas you don't want cavity wax on.

Also, cavity wax should be the last thing used on a vehicle. You don't want it anywhere near area's you're going to spray paint. Paint first, cavity wax last.
 
One other note about cavity wax. It will firm up in a few hours, but the first few hot days you will get a few more drips on the floor or unto exterior panels as it re-softens. That is normal, just wipe it with wax & grease remover.
 
RenewAP said:
One other note about cavity wax. It will firm up in a few hours, but the first few hot days you will get a few more drips on the floor or unto exterior panels as it re-softens. That is normal, just wipe it with wax & grease remover.
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Very useful information. I haven't yet used cavity wax so your information is a life saver to reduce a heart attack.
 
This doesn't exactly match your situation, but since we were installing new door skins, we epoxied the inner door and skin separately, then installed the skin, and test fit to car before spot welding the flanges. We then mixed up more epoxy and squirted it in using a turkey baster at the top of the vertical pinch on either end. Kept adding until it was running out the bottom drains. Added some in the middle to insure coverage. This process may require a drain pan ;)

Similar process could be used with an intact door using roller, foam brush, etc. to coat the inside. And don't be taking your wife's turkey baster out of the kitchen and blame it on me, you'll be on your own...


Picture331.jpg
 
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