You sand all of the marker off, just like you'd sand guide coat off. I always wetsand everything including edges/creases, body lines, ect. I don't want super flat open parts of the panels, then orange peel on the details that are hard to sand/buff. Using a sharpie give you a visual indication of when it's sanded just enough to remove all of the texture so you can stop sanding as soon as possible to keep the paint as thick as possible.That’s a great tip.
If you are doing that during the buffing process, do you just make a pass over with the pad to then remove the remainIng sharpie ink? Or some solvent to remove when the buffing is complete?
Thanks. I haven’t started yet and was always wondering how you get it to look right if you don’t do some (careful) cutting and buffing all the way to the edge…You sand all of the marker off, just like you'd sand guide coat off. I always wetsand everything including edges/creases, body lines, ect. I don't want super flat open parts of the panels, then orange peel on the details that are hard to sand/buff. Using a sharpie give you a visual indication of when it's sanded just enough to remove all of the texture so you can stop sanding as soon as possible to keep the paint as thick as possible.
Plenty of compound and or wetting the pad helps as well.
Looks good. The problem with wet sanding and buffing a blended edge like that is the clear is very thin at the edge and it will fail and show at some point. When that is depends on sun exposure etc along with how lucky you are. Using blending solvent can help burn in the edge but as far as I know that is subject to failure at some point too. Blending solvent instructions are in the tech manual.I fixed this one with an airbrush and tape. Wet sanded and buffed.
Just wondering how it “should be done”
Jim the proper way is as Don stated earlier. Doing it any other way results in leaving a clear edge (even if it's invisible) on the panel that will eventually fail. I'm not saying not to do it that way, just the reality of trying to do a spot repair on catylzed urethane. Only foolproof way is to blend the area and clear the panel.
It's wear, the solvents can't bite into the catalyzed material and the thin edge will eventually lose adhesion and erode. That said, just as Universal has a long open window for buffing, it also seems to have a long repair window and remains slightly reversible when fresh, allowing the solvent in clear and blender to bite in a little and produce really nice looking spot repairs. Not super sure about longevity though.
Curious if you think Jim’s UV enhanced workspace will affect the UV repair window.It's wear, the solvents can't bite into the catalyzed material and the thin edge will eventually lose adhesion and erode. That said, just as Universal has a long open window for buffing, it also seems to have a long repair window and remains slightly reversible when fresh, allowing the solvent in clear and blender to bite in a little and produce really nice looking spot repairs. Not super sure about longevity though.
Of course there is a time window, it's a catylzed polyurethane clear. It's a little longer than typical urethane clears and solvent will bite in for a few days after spraying but it's not unlimited.My conversations with Barry may substantiate that thought. He said UC makes a great base for repairs. We never really got into if there was a time window for that but I never got the impression there was but I am getting old and confuse easily these days …..
I have no idea! All I can say is that in the very few instances I've done open blends over the years, it does a lot better over SPI UC than other clears or OE finishes. I can get the blend to be invisible over UC, at least as it goes out the door...Curious if you think Jim’s UV enhanced workspace will affect the UV repair window.
Don
Curious if you think Jim’s UV enhanced workspace will affect the UV repair window.
Don