First of all this is my first paint job and I muddling through. Two steps forward one back. On my door I had a bad area or orange peel on my 3 coat of base. (solid not metallic). Looks as if it had a bad case of acne.
Like a fool I sand through the basecoat down to the sealer. I sprayed my 4th coat hoping it cover it but no luck. Do I need to strip the base back to the sealer or what? Need a guiding hand.
Sanded through base coat to sealer
- Thread starter 59mgaguy
- Start date
Lizer
Mad Scientist
That actually looks like you got some contamination on the panel, either from water in your line or something on the panel. It looks a lot like pigment migration you get with epoxy. What was your sealer and are you sure that was perfectly smooth?
If you sand down the base and respray an area it can take several spot coats on that area to cover it, then spray the entire panel again to tie it in. This is assuming you’ve been spraying enough coats of base for complete coverage. If it’s not complete coverage one panel might look darker than others if it received extra coats of base.
If you sand down the base and respray an area it can take several spot coats on that area to cover it, then spray the entire panel again to tie it in. This is assuming you’ve been spraying enough coats of base for complete coverage. If it’s not complete coverage one panel might look darker than others if it received extra coats of base.
Could be on the contamination but I have a filter attached to just below the regulator. Since I'm new at this I believe I either got too close or spraying at an angle. When I sanded the base to get rid of the orange peel I got down to the sealer. After respraying the spots appeared as white sealer in the middle and raised base around it. As a volcano. I did have a problem with the regulator. I would increase my air only find after a couple of passes with the gun the pressure was too low no matter how many times I increased it.
I tore down my regulator. The regulator is a Binks MFG model PR100 and must be from the 50's. I pick it up from my 97 old mentor who had a body shop from the 40's thru the 70's Lizer commented on contamination and the regulator is the only thing is could come from. Not taking a chnace is the reason I tore it down to clean. Now put it together again and try to figure out what type of grease is used. Time is short I'm due for hand surgery next week then knee a couple weeks later.
Chris_Hamilton
Trying to be the best me, I can be
Hi John, I received your email. I will reply later today. I'll try to add my thoughts to your issue. And bravo Sir for tackling something like this at 78. I think that is awesome.
Contamination comes from the compressor itself and water that condenses downstream in your air lines. Contamination also comes from improper cleaning of the surface to be painted. Often a combination of all of these things.
In that second pic I notice the area towards the top of the pic looks like contamination of some sort. Did that area only appear after the 3rd coat? If so that is telltale for some form of contamination from your air lines/compressor. If I had to guess I would say it was water. But it could be oil vapor as well. Water would be the most common. I have no idea how your air lines are setup and what you are using for water/oil removal.
As for what to do? Assuming you have a sandable base and not SW or Chroma like Crash mentioned above, there are two ways you can go about repairing it. First would be to try and sand out the texture by hand, using a fine grit like 1000. Do it wet. Sand very evenly, never concentrate on one area as you are doing it. Once it is nearly gone, then clean it, wipe it down with a solvent based wax and grease remover and spray 2-3 more coats.
The other way and what I think is better especially seeing this appears to be a single part on a stand, is to sand the entire panel (evenly) with 600-800 wet until the defects are gone, then clean, W&G remover, (solvent) reseal, and rebase. Probably would be easier provided you have enough base. Trying to spot sand defects like that is difficult for an experienced guy let alone someone doing their first job (you are doing great BTW). And you really wouldn't use much more base doing it this way as even spot sanding you are going to have to do two coats min over the entire panel.
Keep asking questions if you have them.
Contamination comes from the compressor itself and water that condenses downstream in your air lines. Contamination also comes from improper cleaning of the surface to be painted. Often a combination of all of these things.
In that second pic I notice the area towards the top of the pic looks like contamination of some sort. Did that area only appear after the 3rd coat? If so that is telltale for some form of contamination from your air lines/compressor. If I had to guess I would say it was water. But it could be oil vapor as well. Water would be the most common. I have no idea how your air lines are setup and what you are using for water/oil removal.
As for what to do? Assuming you have a sandable base and not SW or Chroma like Crash mentioned above, there are two ways you can go about repairing it. First would be to try and sand out the texture by hand, using a fine grit like 1000. Do it wet. Sand very evenly, never concentrate on one area as you are doing it. Once it is nearly gone, then clean it, wipe it down with a solvent based wax and grease remover and spray 2-3 more coats.
The other way and what I think is better especially seeing this appears to be a single part on a stand, is to sand the entire panel (evenly) with 600-800 wet until the defects are gone, then clean, W&G remover, (solvent) reseal, and rebase. Probably would be easier provided you have enough base. Trying to spot sand defects like that is difficult for an experienced guy let alone someone doing their first job (you are doing great BTW). And you really wouldn't use much more base doing it this way as even spot sanding you are going to have to do two coats min over the entire panel.
Provided you didn't touch the panel or contaminate it then yes. Proceed to applying one or more coats of base. Base that has been sanded always needs more base before you can clear. Otherwise it will look "off". You will see the sanded areas differently than the unsanded. And it's a good idea to use a solvent based W&G remover over anything that you have nibbed or sanded like that. You want to be sure you have it clean.
Keep asking questions if you have them.
As an amateur myself, I would take the above advise from Chris on wet sanding the entire panel to get it smooth, reseal it and continue on with base. Sometimes that little bit of extra work pays off in the end and the results will be flawless. Best of luck and keep us posted.