sanding base

D

deto326

I have 2 newbe questions
1. If you have a small area of orange peel that needs sanding out on your base can you simply sand that area and go ahead and shoot the clear or will the whole car have to have another coat of base. This is considering that the base is less than 24 hours old.

2. I have some spi epoxy activator that has been opened and been stored in a room at 77 degrees how long is it good for. Some one told me that it is not any good after about 3 weeks is this true?

Thanks Dave
 
What brand is your base?

I asked Barry about shelf life on his products and this is what I got

All solvents are good until can starts rusting inside.
Clears, primers for ever.
Epoxy activator figure 3 years.
Other activators once open 3 weeks to 1 year.
 
mitch_04;39162 said:
What brand is your base?

I asked Barry about shelf life on his products and this is what I got

All solvents are good until can starts rusting inside.
Clears, primers for ever.
Epoxy activator figure 3 years.
Other activators once open 3 weeks to 1 year.
Click to expand...

Thanks Mitch for your quick reply. The base I am using is the SPI dark red.

So according to Barry then I am OK with the epoxy activator.
What about the clear activator? I have some of that to that has been opened.
Dave
 
Sand it and spot in some more color over the sanded area, some solid colors you'll be ok with just sanding and clearing others need to have another coat of color applier...to be on the safe side I'd suggests applying another coat of base over the sanded area.
 
most activators will turn yellow/brown and get thicker when they start to go bad. The only way to keep them fresh is with a nitrogen or argon blanket, and I have yet to figure out how to do that. Believe me, for the 36 bucks, its not worth using something you are not sure of.
 
I think it has alot more to do with how the paint flows than not hardening at all. Most cases you will see a ton of pinholes, I usually call them fireworks. Its almost like the important chemicals in the hardener are no longer active so all the good flow characteristics are gone and the dry time is thrown off.
 
anotheridiot;39177 said:
I think it has alot more to do with how the paint flows than not hardening at all. Most cases you will see a ton of pinholes, I usually call them fireworks. Its almost like the important chemicals in the hardener are no longer active so all the good flow characteristics are gone and the dry time is thrown off.
Click to expand...

I have some clear activator that has been opened for about 5 weeks so I should
Dave toss it.
 
deto326;39178 said:
I have some clear activator that has been opened for about 5 weeks so I should
Dave toss it.
Click to expand...

I dont think 5 weeks is bad at all, as long as its not yellowed and the top was on good. If you want to be safe, you can just spray out a scrap panel sample that isnt important to make sure it is good. Shouldnt take much, at least that way you get some piece of mind. With my problems piece of mind is worth alot.
 
No problem. Just remember, when it comes to information like that about the chemicals involved, you are best to ask Barry. He can give you an answer, a fact, not just an opinion.
 
You should also check for snowflakes in the activators, I check my clear and primer activators every time I spray, just to make sure..

I rarely ever see anything, I can recall one time I tossed out a clear activator, it only had a inch left in the can, it had a few snowflakes in it, wasn't worth the risk..
they are more likely to go bad the closer they are to empty due to the extra air space in the can..
 
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