Satin paint - application and care questions

I

Idaho

Hi. New here and enjoying reading/learning.

I'm considering a satin paint for my Demon restoration. I've looked at the Hot Rod Flatz but they don't have the green apple color I'd like, and I'm not sure I should even go with satin. I'm looking at this option partly because every time I see one of these cars in primer, I like how the bodylines show, and I guess I like to be different. It will not be a show car.

I'm wondering how difficult it is to get a good application, and what might be easier for an amateur, single stage like the Hot Rod Flatz, or flattening the clear.

I suspect with either method, there will be no final sanding or polishing so the final coat must be done well, and repairs may be harder to match up.

I also wonder what it's like to take care of. I presume it would never be waxed and might hang onto dirt, tar etc and be harder to clean.

I've done some aircraft painting and a few DIY jobs with single stage, two with base/clear, currently using a Finishline III gun. The last base/clear I did to repair my daughter's van was metallic I got from NAPA and I got it to come out fine but I don't want to fuss with any metallics again. That will say something about my skill level.

I'm here because I plan to use SPI epoxy and I'm learning a lot reading. The thread I found on bare metal prep is awesome and answers a lot of questions I've been researching for a long time.
 
Do some paint testing to make sure the results are what You're after and to dial in the proceedure. I'd veer away from doing a complete satin job for the reasons you already mentioned but it has become popular. You can use a pre-flattened clear or add flattener to a singlestage or clear. Laying down a perfect satin finish on a complete can challenge some of the best painters, matching and repairing can also be a real headache.
 
Those were just common sense guesses on my part but judging by your reply I'm not too far off base. I don't care so much about absolute perfection as it's just going to be a weekend fun car, but life provides enough headaches without adding more so I may reconsider.
I hang out on the FABO (For A Bodies Only) forum and have learned lots from very knowlegable folks there. I'm finding lots of good info here, and appreciate the input.
 
i've done a few small jobs with the PPG DCU2060 preflattened clear with great results. you can also mix regular clear in to change how flat or glossy you want the final finish to be. i've never had the opportunity to play around with the additives, so can't speak on those.

here's a harley tank i did last winter in black base topcoated with the 2060.

IMG_2577.jpg
 
sellersrodshop;16222 said:
i've done a few small jobs with the PPG DCU2060 preflattened clear with great results. you can also mix regular clear in to change how flat or glossy you want the final finish to be. i've never had the opportunity to play around with the additives, so can't speak on those.

here's a harley tank i did last winter in black base topcoated with the 2060.

IMG_2577.jpg
Click to expand...

That looks so good I might have to risk the headache!
Thanks for the info.
 
Idaho;16156 said:
Hi. New here and enjoying reading/learning.

I'm considering a satin paint for my Demon restoration. I've looked at the Hot Rod Flatz but they don't have the green apple color I'd like, and I'm not sure I should even go with satin. I'm looking at this option partly because every time I see one of these cars in primer, I like how the bodylines show, and I guess I like to be different. It will not be a show car.

I'm wondering how difficult it is to get a good application, and what might be easier for an amateur, single stage like the Hot Rod Flatz, or flattening the clear.

I suspect with either method, there will be no final sanding or polishing so the final coat must be done well, and repairs may be harder to match up.

I also wonder what it's like to take care of. I presume it would never be waxed and might hang onto dirt, tar etc and be harder to clean.

I've done some aircraft painting and a few DIY jobs with single stage, two with base/clear, currently using a Finishline III gun. The last base/clear I did to repair my daughter's van was metallic I got from NAPA and I got it to come out fine but I don't want to fuss with any metallics again. That will say something about my skill level.

I'm here because I plan to use SPI epoxy and I'm learning a lot reading. The thread I found on bare metal prep is awesome and answers a lot of questions I've been researching for a long time.
Click to expand...



Use a better compliant gun and some DBC500 for the silvers and golds. The metallics will be a breeze.....
 
I had to google "compliant" as I had no idea... Not sure I'll paint enough to warrant that kind of purchase.

My problem was not blending as I was doing full panels. I had a heck of a time battling striping with the metallic base. If I recall, lower pressure and wide fan did it.

Here's pics of the van repair. I transplanted a front end from a parts van off craigslist and repaired the engine including bent valve. She then proceeded to hit a deer about two months later and wrecked it again! It sits now as she has a different car.

That's how it goes sometimes. I'm just glad she wasn't hurt. :)van before.jpg

After repair Pass.jpg
 
Some rigs are just deer magnets for some reason...

Anyway, if you don't have a lot of painting experience, spraying a complete satin finish job is probably not a good idea. Small parts or single panels are not hard, but whole vehicles are a different story, and you can't paint pieces at a time because the gloss will change a bit depending on conditions.
 
I'll likely heed the warning.
I've thought about leaving it in black epoxy primer.
 
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