Single stage questions

Lizer

Mad Scientist
I'm currently restoring a 1970 F250 for my uncle (grandpa's farm truck). I should start a build thread on it because it is a solid survivor 59k mile original truck, still has original tires even and no body rust. Still have the original bill of sale for it.

It is Ford Candyapple red (a solid and not a true candy), with Wimbledon white roof.

Because I'm trying to restore the entire truck within this spring, summer, and fall, and because both colors are solid, I'd like to do SS for convenience and fewer steps. I can get both of these colors in single stage from Chad as Automotive Art Motocryl (@Barry FYI).

I have had some convo's with Barry and Chad on the matter already. Barry mentions that Rusty Gillis only uses single stage for black and he does 4 coats. Chad mentioned he had used single stage once and got some light spots after cutting and buffing so ended up rebasing and clearing the entire car. He used less than 4 coats though.

My main concern is light spots then after cut and buff. And remember I'm not a Chad. I'm not even a hanging chad. I prob won't cut the roof (white), just the red. If I do 4 coats min should I be ok to maintain color consistency upon cut and buff?
 

jcclark

Oldtimer
Some colors, (like shades of blue) and metallics, don't cut and buff very well with single stage.
I like single stage and when I'm going to cut and buff it I like to throw a couple coats of urethane clear
over it so I can cut and buff. Here's a SS I did a long time ago with a lot of metallic, cut and buffed
and held up great.
Clearing it gives more protection too.
 

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Leonard1

Professional Amateur
I get that you are applying more paint, but I'd still like to see the process. So 600 on a hard block, I assume a straight line sand, like you'd sand clear? Recoat, then start with 1200 for the final color sand?
 
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