Spraying small parts with hvlp mini gun

rustover

Member
I sprayed a few brackets over the last couple days and I have to say it seems to me to be difficult with an hvlp. I know I just need some more experience on gun setup. I have a 1.2 mini detail gun sold by Eastwood and I tried all kinds of settings. I'm not sure who makes these concours guns, but they seem to be ok. If I choked everything down it seem to give me a pebble finish, if I open the fluid a little I had to feather the trigger a lot to get it into all the little recessed areas. I had the pressure about 26psi and the fluid tip about 2 turns out and about a 2 inch fan. Also add that those little parts like to bounce around a lot while trying to spray them arrrg.

Parts turned out good. Just seemed a lot harder to do than say a flat panel.

Do you guys have some tips for small stuff? Thanks, Russ
 
Some small parts have a bolt hole or screw hole that allow you to attach the piece to a stick or rod-this makes it easy to hold smaller parts in one hand and the gun in the other, shoot the part and hang it to dry. I've also wired parts together like a chain and suspended from the ceiling-the more parts, the more weight, and the less movement when spraying. Your gun adjustment takes time to master and it will need to be changes when shooting into tight areas, get yourself something smooth to practice on to get your adjustment right before shooting the next batch of parts. I haven't played with that particular gun but 26psi sounds high. The gun settings are all dependent on the viscosity of the product and the coverage area-what you are spraying. Most guns will work at many different air pressures and fluid and pattern settings-distance to surface also needs to be adjusted accordingly. Get to know your guns. Do some test spraying and choke the gun down to 10psi, adjust the trigger pull down to a minimum, and reduce your gun distance to 2"-fine tune each adjustment untill you get a smooth application in a small area-learn how far down the gun can be adjusted for minimal material transfer. Then open up each setting some including the distance to surface and practice there-adjust as necessary. Then adjust the trigger pull to wide open and increase the air pressure till there's a balance that allows good atomization and a slick coat-if it's putting out too much material then turn in the fluid knob some or try increasing the air. Once you understand how adjustable the the gun is and what the adjustments accomplish it then becomes easy. On a side note...after you spend a lot of time with the gun and get accustomed to regulating the trigger pull yourself instead of relying on the fluid knob/trigger stop, then it becomes easy to make quick adjustments to the pattern and air pressure on the fly while not needing to touch the fluid knob.
 
Russ, just curious. Are you shooting epoxy, 2K or paint?

I'm learning
 
Thanks for the replies guys. Clay, I was shooting epoxy. The air pressure at 26 psi did seem a little high. I had previously used this gun at 22 psi and it performed well with all adjustments wide open. This was epoxy that I had left over and it was at least 24 hrs old. That may have been the reason I had it so high.

Bob, I think I will try to get some water based craft paint and play with the gun settings and try those things that you mentioned.

Thanks, Russ
 
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