starting to prime questions on top coat

[RD Haes]

hello all,

i went through my first spray with my new epoxy primer and had some questions i wanted to see if i could clarify. i searched through the forums some and have taken some info from several to come up with my plan to base coat.

I have epoxy primed some basted rust/rot areas, sanded and cleaned my new metal areas, and sanded down the remaining spots of new paint with 150 grit and cleaned everything prior to epoxy with 700-1 i really dont have a desire to use any fillers, or any other primers if i do not have to, and would like to go to base coat with as little steps as possible. if i am using the SPI epoxy only, do i have to use any other primers at all? and if i do not, do i still need to run a seal coat over everything before i apply my base coat?


also i had a few other spots that without knowing better sprayed acrylic primer then painted a coat without a sealer, all that has been rough sanded with epoxy over it, but it is only the interior floor. should i seal this also, or can i go straight to base coat?

i really liked how this stuff sprayed, even with my beat up old carquest rack special gun, how ever i would like to try a nice gun with a 1.3 mill tip for next car i do, which i will actually care what it looks like.


thanks for the help


RD

 

[crashtech]

hello all,

i went through my first spray with my new epoxy primer and had some questions i wanted to see if i could clarify. i searched through the forums some and have taken some info from several to come up with my plan to base coat.

I have epoxy primed some basted rust/rot areas, sanded and cleaned my new metal areas, and sanded down the remaining spots of new paint with 150 grit and cleaned everything prior to epoxy with 700-1 i really dont have a desire to use any fillers, or any other primers if i do not have to, and would like to go to base coat with as little steps as possible. if i am using the SPI epoxy only, do i have to use any other primers at all?

Not if your bodywork skills are excellent. It is possible to complete a job with only SPI epoxy primer, but most people appreciate the extra fill a poly primer or urethane primer can add at some point in the process to help make the body wave-free.

and if i do not, do i still need to run a seal coat over everything before i apply my base coat?

Sealer is a good idea, though under some specific circumstances it can be skipped. Plan on using sealer.

also i had a few other spots that without knowing better sprayed acrylic primer then painted a coat without a sealer, all that has been rough sanded with epoxy over it, but it is only the interior floor. should i seal this also, or can i go straight to base coat?

This explanation of what was done is not clear. Just list the materials and processes from the metal up.

i really liked how this stuff sprayed, even with my beat up old carquest rack special gun, how ever i would like to try a nice gun with a 1.3 mill tip for next car i do, which i will actually care what it looks like.


thanks for the help


RD

If you learn to spray well with a crappy gun, a good gun will turn you into a superstar!

 

[RD Haes]

hi crashtech and thank you for your response,

my body work skills are far from excellent, perhaps even a novice is beyond reach at the moment. there are no straight panels on my jeep, and I don't imagine there will be in it's foreseeable future. i am just looking for keeping paint on it at the moment and hopefully stop any future rust from forming. i did plan on using the spi epoxy with reducer as a sealer, i had wondered if i still needed it if i skipped all bondo/filler primer work. also was wondering if there was a need for me to use any other primers, or if i could go bare metal-epoxy-sealer-paint, or bare metal-epoxy-paint

as far as my previous foulups, on the interior floors, i bead blasted the floor, and did not know about needing cleaner at this time, i then sprayed with nason 491-17 epoxy primer then i used nason 421-23 acrylic primer over it, some of which i did within the recoat window, *24 hours for nason, lessons #27 and 28* i also put a coat of some nason tractor paint over it without using a sealer first. i hope that makes more sense. i then sanded the base coat with 120 grit cleaned with 700-1 wiped clean and sprayed the spi epoxy over that. this is 1 area i had intended to seal, then basecoat, or maybe rhinoline.

as i learned recently on my bumper i did last year or so ago the 491-17 requires another primer on top, then a sealer. this is probably why i am confused a bit with the SPI epoxy. i had a bunch of nason stuff kicking around as i paint some small dump hoppers for work from time to time at my house. i have also recently decided that i will no longer use my work paints for home projects. i was going over my bumper for a second time i started looking into different primers and stumbled upon here. i think i am getting on the right track now, and feel better about getting this finished.

thanks again

RD

 

[crashtech]

hi crashtech and thank you for your response,

my body work skills are far from excellent, perhaps even a novice is beyond reach at the moment. there are no straight panels on my jeep, and I don't imagine there will be in it's foreseeable future. i am just looking for keeping paint on it at the moment and hopefully stop any future rust from forming. i did plan on using the spi epoxy with reducer as a sealer, i had wondered if i still needed it if i skipped all bondo/filler primer work. also was wondering if there was a need for me to use any other primers, or if i could go bare metal-epoxy-sealer-paint, or bare metal-epoxy-paint

If making the body straight and smooth is not a priority, it is fine to stay with epoxy only.

as far as my previous foulups, on the interior floors, i bead blasted the floor, and did not know about needing cleaner at this time, i then sprayed with nason 491-17 epoxy primer then i used nason 421-23 acrylic primer over it, some of which i did within the recoat window, *24 hours for nason, lessons #27 and 28* i also put a coat of some nason tractor paint over it without using a sealer first. i hope that makes more sense. i then sanded the base coat with 120 grit cleaned with 700-1 wiped clean and sprayed the spi epoxy over that. this is 1 area i had intended to seal, then basecoat, or maybe rhinoline.

Well, I am afraid I still don't know exactly what is going on here. In one sentence you mention tractor paint, and in the next, base coat. Two vastly different things. If you have put shiny 1K (no hardener) tractor paint which is air dry enamel, it is not likely you can successfully recoat that until it has cured for a good long time, unless you just use more of the same. But you say you sprayed epoxy on top of all that. Sounds a little scary? There is no telling if it is sticking except by sanding down through a spot.

as i learned recently on my bumper i did last year or so ago the 491-17 requires another primer on top, then a sealer. this is probably why i am confused a bit with the SPI epoxy. i had a bunch of nason stuff kicking around as i paint some small dump hoppers for work from time to time at my house. i have also recently decided that i will no longer use my work paints for home projects. i was going over my bumper for a second time i started looking into different primers and stumbled upon here. i think i am getting on the right track now, and feel better about getting this finished.

thanks again

RD

Yes, it is a good idea to stick with finishes recommended for auto use and that contain hardeners aka activators (this is the meaning of 2K).