Sunfoam vs trizact

Lizer

Lizer

Mad Scientist
Has anyone tried it? What do people think of Sunmight’s answer to Trizact?

It’s a lot cheaper but I fear it might not be as good.
 
i did try the sunfoam a few mos back. i was not impressed. not sure why but i could not get it to cut. it would never even start. it was the 3000 grit. like don said, the 8000 trizact is great stuff. 3000 trizact, while i wouldnt say it sucks, it is expensive, doesnt last too long and you cant tell when it dulls out and stops cutting. that makes for a situation where your sanding and doing nothing so your not cutting out the previous scratches. you really cant beat the eagle blue bufflex. inexpensive compared to other options. last just as long as trizact does, cuts fast and and you can tell when its getting dull.
 
Jim C said:
i did try the sunfoam a few mos back. i was not impressed. not sure why but i could not get it to cut. it would never even start. it was the 3000 grit. like don said, the 8000 trizact is great stuff. 3000 trizact, while i wouldnt say it sucks, it is expensive, doesnt last too long and you cant tell when it dulls out and stops cutting. that makes for a situation where your sanding and doing nothing so your not cutting out the previous scratches. you really cant beat the eagle blue bufflex. inexpensive compared to other options. last just as long as trizact does, cuts fast and and you can tell when its getting dull.
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Why are you using trizact 8000 in older clears then instead of bufflex?
 
Buflex only goes to 3000. I have heard nothing but good things about the 8000.

I have a supply of sunfoam 3000 and 5000 and Ill be honest I cant even tell a difference between the 2. Maybe(most likely) I have no idea what I am looking for when it comes to being completed with 5000.
 
I’ve only ever used up to 3000 trizact and then started compounding with V32. I haven’t had any bad experiences with the 3000 other than paying for it. It wasn’t hard to get shiny with compound.

If my final sand is machine sand with 2500 sunmight film I have no experience knowing what the difference would be ending with sun foam 5000 vs Trizact 8000 before compounding.
 
Lizer said:
I’ve only ever used up to 3000 trizact and then started compounding with V32. I haven’t had any bad experiences with the 3000 other than paying for it. It wasn’t hard to get shiny with compound.

If my final sand is machine sand with 2500 sunmight film I have no experience knowing what the difference would be ending with sun foam 5000 vs Trizact 8000 before compounding.
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For me it’s all about time. Just about anything works, but at what cost in time? That’s why I tossed the CG stuff. Slower than heck as you have also found. It could have been my technique but you and others have seen the same result. My technique works good with other compounds and polishes. Time is money unless you are trying to milk your customer or you have a ten year timeline….

8000 Trizact saves time compounding.

Don
 
If you guys think the trizac 3000 sucks.... have you dabbled with the trizac 1500??!! lmao. Maybe Ill buy some 8000 and try it on my next job.

Do you guys go from the black buflex straight to 8000?
 
last i checked the 1500 trizact is on film and not the foam pads. i have tried that and that stuff is terrible. the pigtails were insane with it. if i need to do 1500 step wet that that is where the pink/peach assilex discs come in. those are 1500 grit.

i dont think anyone is using black bufflex. the blue 2500 is what you want. i tried the black and its useless. its too fine and the film of water on the surface is thicker than the grit so it wont cut. in most cases of clear within a 2-3 day old window, especially universal, there is no need to go beyond the blue bufflex. the uv clear buffs right out effortlessly after the blue.

the 3m 5000 trizact is good but its kinda a waste. i was told they were getting rid of it because there is no place for it in 3m's system. the 8000 was designed to take out 2500-3000 grit. i go from blue bufflex right to 8000 and it cuts it out like noone's business. to add any step between the blue and 8000 is a waste of time and money.

only time i use 8000 is when i am doing speed clear that has set more than a day in the summer months or 2 days in winter. also on uv clear that is maybe more than 3 days old.
 
I bought a kit recently and it had the black in there. I honestly couldn't tell any difference between the blue and black. But I will definitly try the 8000 when I get a chance.
 
did you use it dry or wet? they are designed to be dry but i use them wet since they last about 20 times longer and just cut better. the black will work wet but only for a couple few sqft. after that it just stops cutting all together. the blue just keeps going and going. on a car for instance i could prob do the whole thing with maybe 2-3 blue discs.
 
I use them dry. I wish I had the eye to tell when they just stop cutting. I don't think my eyes can focus down enough to distinguish the difference between a 2500 scratch and a 3000 scratch.
 
of course not. you cant tell at those fine grits. if you do it wet you can tell by how much sanding slurry your making. its easy to tell when it stops cutting. the disc just isnt doing anything anymore

used the bufflex discs long ago before they were made for dry sanding. suddenly they discontinued the wet discs and now the package says dry. they are the same discs. nothing changed. i believe they would just last too long when used wet so they weren't making the money. now if they say dry and you replace the disc every few ft then your buying more. just use 1000 and 1500 finishing film to get the surface perfect dry so you can see what your doing then from there switch to wet and your just refining the scratches at that point.
 
orangejuiced86 said:
If you guys think the trizac 3000 sucks.... have you dabbled with the trizac 1500??!! lmao. Maybe Ill buy some 8000 and try it on my next job.

Do you guys go from the black buflex straight to 8000?
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My Trizact 1500 is sitting on my shelf of shame. :). It’s gahbage…

Don
 
Jim C said:
of course not. you cant tell at those fine grits. if you do it wet you can tell by how much sanding slurry your making. its easy to tell when it stops cutting. the disc just isnt doing anything anymore

used the bufflex discs long ago before they were made for dry sanding. suddenly they discontinued the wet discs and now the package says dry. they are the same discs. nothing changed. i believe they would just last too long when used wet so they weren't making the money. now if they say dry and you replace the disc every few ft then your buying more. just use 1000 and 1500 finishing film to get the surface perfect dry so you can see what your doing then from there switch to wet and your just refining the scratches at that point.
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Would a 5 disc job pack of 2500 bufflex then easily be enough to do the entire exterior of an old pickup truck if I do it wet?
 
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