Turbo 2K vs Slick Sand

S

stangnet33

Trying to find out what the difference is for the use of or reason for application between the Turbo 2K high build vs Evercoats Slick Sand is. I see that SS is a high build polyester based primer. I been thinking of ordering some SS but seeing I'm getting SPI stuff for the rest of my materials (epoxy, primer, Cleaners....) is it necessary to get the SS ? I see builders on here using both and then just SPI on another build, so just a little confused on the inconsistent methods.
 
As far as I've read, the Slick Sand has less potential to shrink so you do not see sanding scratches down the road. It also goes on ultra thick, high build. The better your bodywork is, the less build you will need. Some on here use only epoxy, that way you'll always have great adhesion and no shrink risk. Others use epoxy, then 2k. Others yet use epoxy then slick sand.

My take is that using slick sand to cover poor bodywork may work, but isn't ideal or the "right way". I'm going to try it someday when blocking a car out to try and get it laser straight, maybe I'll have a better answer then.

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As far as I've read, the Slick Sand has less potential to shrink so you do not see sanding scratches down the road. It also goes on ultra thick, high build. The better your bodywork is, the less build you will need. Some on here use only epoxy, that way you'll always have great adhesion and no shrink risk. Others use epoxy, then 2k. Others yet use epoxy then slick sand.

My take is that using slick sand to cover poor bodywork may work, but isn't ideal or the "right way". I'm going to try it someday when blocking a car out to try and get it laser straight, maybe I'll have a better answer then.
 
I was going the epoxy, then SS, epoxy and the primer/sealant. As far as covering poor body work, the users I see using SS I'd have to say that they put out top notch work. I wouldn't hesitate to bring my project to them and that is the only reason why I'd consider using SS. Thx for the info so far.
 
I have used a lot of Slick Sand and had good results. I painted a 65 fastback SPI viper red over 7 years ago and used Slick Sand and it still looks like it was just painted. I have a Mustang II project that will be all SPI starting with epoxy, turbo, epoxy, and painted SPI orange. Barry likes turbo so I thought I would give it a try.
 
I've used it mainly for those wavey repop panels, good luck with it, seems to be great for getting hoods dead nuts without fighting with skim coat.
 
Slick Sand is sprayable polyester filler. Turbo is a urethane primer.
Two different products used for different reasons. Apples and oranges.

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Slick Sand is sprayable polyester filler. Turbo is a urethane primer.
Two different products used for different reasons. Apples and oranges.
 
RodMan;38247 said:
Slick Sand is sprayable polyester filler. Turbo is a urethane primer.
Two different products used for different reasons. Apples and oranges.
Click to expand...

Exactly! Slick Sand is body filler.
It's the same thing as skim coating a panel with spot putty for final blocking.
Only it's easier because you can do the entire panel with one continuous coating that
will all be the same when sanding.
With fillers you usually have to make multiple applications for larger areas,
when making multiple applications, each batch will be a slightly different hardness
so may sand differently. Slick Sand eliminates that problem.
It all blocks the same so it's easier to straighten the panel.
.
 
Regarding the apple to oranges comparison. I must not be seeing the posts I've looked at correctly then, as it appears that the high build 2K was being used for the same reason as the SS. Covering a panel to take care of multiple low spots. Sprayed on top of epoxy and then blocked out, then epoxy on top again.
 
That's true, they're both used to get enough build for block sanding the panel straight.
The Slick Sand just fills way more and has less shrinking problems than
2K, especially when filling a lot. You don't want to pile on the 2K to try and compensate
for poor body work. It's just not as stable.
I don't usually use a poly primer like Slick Sand, I try and get my body work close enough
that I don't need that much fill, so 2K is mostly all I need.
Most of my work is a portion of a panel, not the whole thing
But poly primers are great for wavy panels when you need to straighten the entire panel
where it's to large to skim easily with putty, like a roof.
 
Poly offers more fill per application when needed but you can also reduce most poly primers with a high grade urethane reducer or acetone and get equal film build per coat as a 2K when thinner apps are needed. They both have their advantages and disadvantages, most 2K primers sand a lot nicer than polyesters. Some 2K's are mixed 4:1 and used as a filler with the option of adding reducer for use as a primer. Polyester time to full cure is shorter than most 2K's IMO. There's also UV cured primers if you want the quickest full cure, and now waterborne primers that a lot of shops have been having good luck with. But to sum it all up most people use 2K urethane primers because that is all that's required to get the job done. This statement:
My take is that using slick sand to cover poor bodywork may work, but isn't ideal or the "right way". to cover poor bodywork.... it kinda erks me a little. Years ago as a young tech when most shops were still using lacquer primers I asked paint reps about polyester primers and got responses on the order of-do your bodywork better, or there's no reason to need that. This was back when I was finishing filler work with 400 grit, looking for ways to increase durability and decrease shrinkage. It went on this way well into the 90's when everyone had switched over to 2K's-ask the reps about poly back then and always get negative responses. But the fact of the matter is there is nothing wrong with poly primers especially when epoxy is incorporated and the paint companies for years swayed as many people away from them as they could..why???? because there was no profit for them considering Evercoat and other companies were putting their products out at reasonable prices, the paint companies couldn't manufacture poly and compete or make anywhere near the profits they make on 2K primers. Now all major paint companies have poly primers in their line up, relabeled other brand names with inflated price tags or their own mix often made by other companies. Do some flexibility and chip tests with poly when epoxy is used under and over and you'll be surprised. And I get a kick out of people that will skim whole panels with filler or polyester glaze but would never touch polyester primer-makes no sense. They all have their uses, pick what works for you.
 
Bob, Many thanks for the explanation. After a 30 year hiatus to raise kids, I just started to return back to recreational painting. I recently painted my Honda and learned a lot about epoxy, 2k, basecoat, and clear. It actually came out quite well. I'm now working on a front fender and fairing on my 82 Harley FLH after a woman pulled out in front of me (but that's another story). The local PPG distributor recommended Slick Sand for the fiberglass fairing. After reading several of the posts, I'm a little apprehensive because of all the compound curves on the inside. Whatever I use, it won't be easy to block. Any recommendations on the SS versus the epoxy and 2K? If I used the SS, do I follow it up with epoxy or 2K then go onto the base? I have a DeVilbiss gun and the largest tip I have is 1.8. (Kinda sounds like I'll be using a touch of acetone if I used the SS).
 
IMO polyester primer should always be coated with epoxy or urethane, I usually shoot two coats of reduced epoxy or turbo and let it cure then final sand, seal and paint.
 
Thanks Bob, The last fiberglass piece was a sidecar back in 86. It still looks pretty decent. I'll take your advice and give it a try. I'm sure I'll learn a lesson the hard way.
John

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Thanks Bob, The last fiberglass piece was a sidecar back in 86. It still looks pretty decent. I'll take your advice and give it a try. I'm sure I'll learn a lesson the hard way.
John
 
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