Turbo Primer

[crashtech]

We have a number of shops that use it this way against my advice but the smartest shop who has been doing this for 15 or so years says;
Each painter (3-4) averages 1-2 come backs per year where there is a problem BUT they make money redoing because of the time they save on all the jobs over the year.
To sum up they are a dealership and as he points out, facts that show if you wreck you car 97.7% of the people will not own in 3 years, so minor gamble for him, also they are just doing small repairs, so when one comes back, its usually one panel and a finger print bubbling.

If a restro shop wanted to do this, I would tell him to use someone else product ALL the way through the job, so I don't get blamed.

It's a very cynical calculation made by someone with no pride whatsoever in their work. Same reasoning applies to all manner of hack procedures that might not fail on the original owner, but sure as hell will on the next one. Then shops like mine are left to clean up the mess and explain that the poor repairs are not only to blame, they made the job that much more expensive. I'd like to burn down every body shop that does this kind of crap to people's cars.

 

[Chad.S]

I would hate to see any drastic change with the epoxy, we count on it so much for restorations that I would have to completely re-evaluate our procedures without it. ​However I wish there was a true DTM type product that really does what it says..

Going through all of these steps really makes it hard to do production work and be any form of profitable. Even little door ding jobs we epoxy it let it cure, sand it and apply a few coats of 2k primer.

I feel like this is overkill but I really hate to have problems.. Another benefit of doing it this way is that when you sand through the 2k you know it's time to stop.. The different colors is like a reverse guide coat.. Works awesome but man it is time consuming.

Not to mention that you are more likely to get a complaint that the job is taking long when you try to do everything right.

In many ways it seems like the nicer work you try to do the more you get punished. lol.

 

[crashtech]

Well, there is a happy medium. We've been using epoxy 1:1:1 over bare metal and before 2K on our collision jobs, and so far it hasn't presented problems. But we always let primer dry overnight, leave the heat on 24/7, and usually put an infrared lamp on the area after blocking it with 320 the next day. After that, wet sand and go. It's a little slower than the average process, but not by much. It's just a matter of working it into the day.

 

[AAE]

Well, there is a happy medium. We've been using epoxy 1:1:1 over bare metal and before 2K on our collision jobs, and so far it hasn't presented problems. But we always let primer dry overnight, leave the heat on 24/7, and usually put an infrared lamp on the area after blocking it with 320 the next day. After that, wet sand and go. It's a little slower than the average process, but not by much. It's just a matter of working it into the day.

Are you putting the epoxy before or after filler at the 1:1:1 mix? What are your wait times? Why not use your heat lamp to force it? 30 minutes at 120 would get it done according to Barry.