UV clear advice needed

[Vdubbin]

Hello all! Long time lurker first time posting!
I’m pretty green when it comes to painting as this is my first paint job and have learned everything from this forum or YouTube. All SPI products used accept for the 3M filler and Motobase base coat

I have a question with my project.. I applied 2 coats of universal.. have some small runs you can see but barely feel.
Going off of what I’ve read in here I was going to try and sand them down with 400g just the runs then 1500 the rest of the truck before buffing.
I have some dust in spots due to painting in my garage and want to flatten out things alittle.

I don’t know if I should go this route or sand & scuff the whole truck and put on 2 more coats.
If I do sand and recoat I’m going to mount the doors back on the truck to do it.
I already pulled all the masking off also…

I just did the clear 2 days ago.. trying to figure out the best approach. I still have a half gallon of Universal and slow reducer. Not sure if that’s why I have the runs because it was alittle cooler or if I just put it on to thick at first.

Trying not to do things I don’t or shouldn’t have to do and this isn’t a full blown show truck but want it to look nice as I have done everything on the truck myself. Just wanting to get some thoughts and feedback.

Thanks in advance

Close up of the worst run

 

[dhutton01]

Two coats is not enough to cut and buff imho. Sand with 600 and apply two more coats. Be careful you don't break through on the edges etc. Go slow flattening those runs. Use a hard block. Consider using the glaze method.

Don

 

[Vdubbin]

Ok I’m ok sanding down the truck with 600 and re clearing to do that.
I have a question thought about sanding the drip rails, those are pretty sharp, could I just grey scuff those areas so I don’t break through the clear?
Also I’ll probably put the doors on so I can do it all and just mask the jams they have 2 coats on them already.

Just don’t wanna break thru on some of the sharp corners is all so looking for the best route to go on those.
Thanks
Paul

 

[stovebolt]

Is that a VW Rabbit p/u ? I like the color , what is that color called ? She looks good !

 

[Vdubbin]

Is that a VW Rabbit p/u ? I like the color , what is that color called ? She looks good !

it is a rabbit pickup
The color is Manila green and thanks

 

[MJM]

For your first time you did an outstanding job. You give hope to all the other first timers their project comes out as nice, including me.

Thanks for sharing.

 

[Vdubbin]

For your first time you did an outstanding job. You give hope to all the other first timers their project comes out as nice, including me.

Thanks for sharing.

Thanks for that. I’m kinda bummed I didn’t put more clear on but live and learn.
All of this has been a learning curve for me and enjoying it.
Just trying to do everything as good as I can for in a home garage

 

[OJ86]

Ok I’m ok sanding down the truck with 600 and re clearing to do that.
I have a question thought about sanding the drip rails, those are pretty sharp, could I just grey scuff those areas so I don’t break through the clear?
Also I’ll probably put the doors on so I can do it all and just mask the jams they have 2 coats on them already.

Just don’t wanna break thru on some of the sharp corners is all so looking for the best route to go on those.
Thanks
Paul

Yes, grey pad and you'll be good on the edges. I would personally hit those runs with 400 and a hard plexi block or you will see them in the re-clear.

If you plan on cutting buffing I would go 3-4 coats on your re-clear. 2 coats is not enough for a job that you plan on sanding down and polishing.

Also, very nice job for your first time!

 

[strum456]

Yes, grey pad and you'll be good on the edges. I would personally hit those runs with 400 and a hard plexi block or you will see them in the re-clear.

And give it some time to cure after sanding the runs flat. Sun would be very helpful.

Nice work!

 

[Vdubbin]

And give it some time to cure after sanding the runs flat. Sun would be very helpful.

Nice work!

How long should I give it? Not sure I’ll be able to push it out into the sun due to so much shade at the moment

 

[Chris_Hamilton]

Being only 2 coats it only needs a couple of days @ 70 or so degrees to sand it in preparation for more coats.

 

[hapcj7]

Nice job on your truck..I just did a project as a first timer (mostly) as well... I had to deal with a spi production clear coat run on a concave section of an engine hood..Lots of folks suggest the glazing putty method..For me, i went at it with 400g dry with a soft sanding sponge bc of the location,,,, After that, i went through all the grits to 2000.. This is obvious, but the clearcoat is heaviest above the run, including the run...You have to figure out the best way to level the heaviest/highest area with the area below the run. I actually let the "run" cure for several days, maybe a weekish in a covered garage. I had applied 3 coats......Good luck

 

[Lizer]

Here’s a blog entry I did some years back on sanding out a run with the putty method. Fortunately I don’t get near as many runs today as I did back then

Blog Brief: Sanding out a run

When spraying a car, especially the clear coat, runs--formally known as 'flow indicators,'--are inevitable. Because I was hosing my clear o...

joshlizer.blogspot.com

 

[Vdubbin]

Ok so I hit the runs with a small hard block with 400g. Took me like 10 minutes to knock them down. They were mostly right around the mid indent trim like. I guess it was slick there. I’ll have to watch that area when I resprayed or just a smaller overlap of passes near it.
I’m waiting for some 800 or 1000g sandpaper to sand the rest of the truck. The paint looks so good!
But I wanna have more clear on it to buff it.

Is there a grit I should use prior to respraying? 600, 800 or 1000? I probably won’t go through them all if respraying.
Grey scuff pad on the tight areas and corners.
Also the lower rocker areas I put on a chip guard. Should that area just be scuffed with a grey pad be good enough?

 

[OJ86]

600 is a good choice for a re-clear, and yes just scuff the rock guard area real good with the grey pad.

 

[Vdubbin]

600 is a good choice for a re-clear, and yes just scuff the rock guard area real good with the grey pad.

Awesome! Thanks so much for everyone’s help!

 

[Vdubbin]

Just a update on this..
I ended up sanding the truck with 600g, grey scuff pads on the right areas and lower chip guard.
Cleaned it really good using 700 then 710 twice,
Then shot 4 more coats of Universal using medium reducer. The think the reducer was better for the temp I was shooting, but I think the slow laid out better when I shot it the first time.
Overall finish is pretty good, I think I was more nervous shooting it this time than I was the first time. I was happy with the first spray (besides the runs) just wish I would have put more than 2 coats on. Owell it’s all new to me and learning.

Less runs this time, still alittle dirt and orange peel but I’m happy with it and happy I have more material to cut and buff. Probably going to leave it till spring to do any sanding and whatnot unless I get bored this winter.

Working on getting the bay ready to be sprayed now, sanding the high build now.

Nervous about spraying the bay and tight areas but going to be dialing my gun down to hit those first then the rest, just wanna have less finish work in the bay if possible so we shall see!