Weird crinkling…

[Sugar Elf Creations]

So I sprayed my door jams about 5 days ago with Euro Clear. (Reduced epoxy, wait overnight, black base, wait one more night, clear next morning.

There were some edges of clear on to the flat parts of the panels. I blocked those areas with 800 to get it flat, but there was still a little bit of clear on the panels.

Today I went to put base coat on the panels and the edges of the clear started to crinkle, crack, and ever so slightly wrinkle.

When I sprayed the second coat of base you can’t see it anymore but as it flashes you can see the crinkling. Given that the “wet” paint hides it, will the clear hide this? Have any of you had this issue? Was the clear just too fresh to spray base over it?

I’ve painted over bc/cc many times where the paint was sanded back to all the layers without issue, but I’m guessing the paint wasn’t cured enough for the reducer in the base coat and it reacted with the fresh clear. Edges.

Note that it didn’t affect the clear where there isn’t an edge, only on the edges.

 

[Barry]

Never wet-sand a black/black base such as spi or PPG factory black with anything coarser than 1500 wet, or you can get wrinkling.
Normal blacks like ford or Chevy it usually don't matter.
Factory pack blacks are different.

To fix 1500 slick and recoat the spot.

 

[Sugar Elf Creations]

Thank you Barry. My mistake sanding the base with 800. I’ll sand the affected areas with 1500 and recoat with black base.

Should I lay a coat just in the areas affected and blend into the fresh base on the rest of the car or is it better to spray a coat over the whole car? (There is no clear on the car as of now).

 

[Barry]

Whatever is best for you, if just one panel, shoot the whole panel.
For years, I could not figure out why this only happened on the black, but a chemist from a competitor explained why, and it stopped the issue.
As they use to have the same issue.

 

[Sugar Elf Creations]

Whatever is best for you, if just one panel, shoot the whole panel.
For years, I could not figure out why this only happened on the black, but a chemist from a competitor explained why, and it stopped the issue.
As they use to have the same issue.

Interesting for sure! I nearly had a heart attack when I saw it happen in front of me, haha. Glad it's not a total redo. Appreciate the help!!

Now that I'm looking over the TDS again I see you put 1500-2000 grit ONLY for the black base.

 

[Chris_Hamilton]

May just be the camera angle etc but in those pics it looks like you were spraying pretty wet. With base you only want to spray light-medium to at most medium coats. You don't spray base like you do clear. Spraying wet can contribute to the problem you experienced.

 

[Sugar Elf Creations]

May just be the camera angle etc but in those pics it looks like you were spraying pretty wet. With base you only want to spray light-medium to at most medium coats. You don't spray base like you do clear. Spraying wet can contribute to the problem you experienced.

I was spraying pretty light for the first couple coats. I did lay it on a little wetter on the third coat in the problem areas only so I had some material down so I could block it back a little without breaking through. But yeah, I agree it’s on a there little wetter than I normally do.

 

[shine]

you sand anything too thin solvents will lift it. base should never be blocked. denib maybe but never treated like primer.

 

[Sugar Elf Creations]

I need some help to make sure I'm fixing this the right way...

I sanded down the problem areas with 1500 wet. There is quite a bit of fracturing in the paint after it was sanded. See the pictures below. You will also see one area that has many small holes or divots now. I'm beyond frustrated but trying to stay calm and think this through, and hoping there is a way to fix this without redoing everything...

Is there a way to block down these areas back to the sealer/high-build primer without having issues with the base coat lifting on the edges? Is there a better way to deal with this?

My thoughts on how to fix it, but please correct me if I am not thinking about this the right way:
1. Block down the bad areas with 400 wet so the surface is level.
2. Go over with 800 wet.
3. W&G remover over the car. (The rest of the car was sprayed 5 days ago and hasn't been touched otherwise).
4. Tack Cloth.
5. Seal with reduced epoxy.
6. 2-3 very light coats of base just to cover.
7. Clear the whole car.

Any help is very much appreciated.

(Materials I'm using for reference: SPI Black/ Euro Clear 2020)

 

[crashtech]

I am not sure what happened there, but if it was mine to do, I would block those cracks all the way down until they are gone, then epoxy. That material is compromised, and those cracks will telegraph to the surface, if not eliminated now.

 

[Sugar Elf Creations]

I am not sure what happened there, but if it was mine to do, I would block those cracks all the way down until they are gone, then epoxy. That material is compromised, and those cracks will telegraph to the surface, if not eliminated now.

Would you block it with 400 > 800, then epoxy > base > clear?

Barry mentioned not to sand with anything coarser than 1500 because those areas only have basecoat, no clear coat yet. I stopped when I noticed the issues. Just a little confused, sorry. Not trying to be dense, just a little lost...

 

[crashtech]

Well, I think he was talking about in-process sanding, and now we're looking at cured material. I only speak from my own experience, which is extensive, but not as much so as Barry's. I think it's best to block that stuff down with 400 until it's gone. How about use 400 in the area of the cracks/crinkles until they are gone, then 800 and/or grey scuff pads in the surrounding area so that the primer will not hit any un-sanded areas. You can always confirm that with the tech line if you feel unsure.

 

[Sugar Elf Creations]

Well, I think he was talking about in-process sanding, and now we're looking at cured material. I only speak from my own experience, which is extensive, but not as much so as Barry's. I think it's best to block that stuff down with 400 until it's gone. How about use 400 in the area of the cracks/crinkles until they are gone, then 800 and/or grey scuff pads in the surrounding area so that the primer will not hit any un-sanded areas. You can always confirm that with the tech line if you feel unsure.

Thank you!

I’d feel better sanding the issue areas down to primer to reduce any problems down the road.