Wet Bed

Tungsten

Promoted Users
Searching it I didn't get much,no titles anyway.
Silver Birch Metallic is the colour, question is do you let the clear base (wet bed)flash then proceed with base?
I have Valspar lvbr 100 clear base. It’s what they had.
I have the box in sealer/primer and the back door is sanded clear.
I assume spray the clear base over both panels box and door? Proceed with base over the primer first until covered then proceed into the door for the blend?
Thanks.
 
Not sure why this isn’t a sticky
 
Not sure why this isn’t a sticky
He doesn't include wet bed in that.

However I found this,


If you are having trouble with the blend you can also use a blender product. SPI Intercoat would work well for this. Take your RTS base and the intercoat (activated or not ) and mix it 1:1. Then spray one to two more coats using the same technique as described above. You only want to do this after you get coverage of the repair area.

You can also put a "wet bed" of intercoat clear over the whole panel, let it flash, then proceed blending your color out. That might be easier for you to do. It helps with getting the metallic to "lay down".

Tack the panel after every coat. That is very important.
 
So I can do the wet bed method or …. Mix my RTS base with RTS clear base and do the blend after I’ve sprayed the box.
Not sure what’s the best.
 
I didn't cover the wet bed because I believe the method I outlined to be easier. Even doing a wet bed you still need to do a blend like I outlined in that post. Main purpose of a wet bed is to help with the orientation of metallic at the edges. It isn't specifically going to help you with the blend. If you use the technique I outlined in the post then the wet bed is not needed. Use slow, or very slow ,or a blend of the two depending on the temps, SPI reducer (very important) and the technique I outlined and a wet bed is not necessary. Honestly I haven't done a wet bed in 15 years probably. A wet bed in many causes is used as a crutch for the piss poor reducer many guys have to use at collision shops. Use a quality reducer (SPI) and there really isn't a need for the wet bed.
If you want to do a wet bed you simply use SPI Intercoat or a manufacturer specific product, it usually will be referred to as a blender of some sort. All it is, is, clear basecoat binder. Follow the manufacturers instructions on mixing/reducing/activating. Spray one medium wet coat over the repair area. Wait for it to flash, then begin your base blend. Spray it wet, but not wet enough to run.

The other method for blending is doing what is called a drop coat. I didn't get into that because I believe that to be much harder for a novice to do successfully and not screw it up. If you use the technique I outlined in that post you will have success.
 
Thanks, being a rookie I think the wet bed is best.I know spraying this colour is finicky.Light coats ,it can appear mottled? if sprayed to heavy.
 
Another question,panel temps usually lower than 70f 65-68 still ok to use slow reducer?
Yes. Slow will be OK. If you have some medium you could blend the two if the panel temps are that cool this time of year. 2 parts slow to one part medium.



Like I said the wet bed is simply to help the edges of the metallic orient correctly. Especially when using marginal or subpar reducer. For you, consider the use of SPI reducer mandatory. Good reducer is very very important. If you follow the spray technique I outlined you will have success. Practice the technique I outlined (progressive pull and releasing of the trigger) that is key to getting a good result. Remember just the wet bed alone is not going to help you blend.
 
Forecast shows 80-85f next week.My garage is heavily insulated.Panel temps could be 70 if I leave the big door open for a few hours.
Currently 57f in my garage.
 
which low voc solvent base coat do you have? It may fight you more than anything else. I have sprayed a few. Sand piling is it's favorite thing.
 
I didn't cover the wet bed because I believe the method I outlined to be easier. Even doing a wet bed you still need to do a blend like I outlined in that post. Main purpose of a wet bed is to help with the orientation of metallic at the edges. It isn't specifically going to help you with the blend. If you use the technique I outlined in the post then the wet bed is not needed. Use slow, or very slow ,or a blend of the two depending on the temps, SPI reducer (very important) and the technique I outlined and a wet bed is not necessary. Honestly I haven't done a wet bed in 15 years probably. A wet bed in many causes is used as a crutch for the piss poor reducer many guys have to use at collision shops. Use a quality reducer (SPI) and there really isn't a need for the wet bed.
If you want to do a wet bed you simply use SPI Intercoat or a manufacturer specific product, it usually will be referred to as a blender of some sort. All it is, is, clear basecoat binder. Follow the manufacturers instructions on mixing/reducing/activating. Spray one medium wet coat over the repair area. Wait for it to flash, then begin your base blend. Spray it wet, but not wet enough to run.

The other method for blending is doing what is called a drop coat. I didn't get into that because I believe that to be much harder for a novice to do successfully and not screw it up. If you use the technique I outlined in that post you will have success.
I agree I very rarely use a wet bed always just use the slowest reducer and blend it out never have any issues even on hard colors. I feel like the wet bed is adding another step to have something go wrong as well and adding more solvents
 
I agree I very rarely use a wet bed always just use the slowest reducer and blend it out never have any issues even on hard colors. I feel like the wet bed is adding another step to have something go wrong as well and adding more solvents
My feelings exactly.
 
Having never done a blend before kinda scares me. Looking at the blend area now that it’s sanded to 800 it’s really dull. Not sure how it will look. Or what to look for.
I guess push comes to shove if the blend looks bad I can continue to base and clear the truck box and deal with the blend after.
 
Having never done a blend before kinda scares me. Looking at the blend area now that it’s sanded to 800 it’s really dull. Not sure how it will look. Or what to look for.
I guess push comes to shove if the blend looks bad I can continue to base and clear the truck box and deal with the blend after.
When you are spraying you need to step back, relax your eyes, look at the blend area and look for shade differences. That's all that matters. Look for a smooth undetectable transition in color/shade from the existing color to the newly applied. Relaxing your eyes helps you see it better. Sort of like what you would do when staring at those computer generated pictures that were popular some years ago that appeared one way but when you relaxed your eyes you saw something else.
 
If you follow the technique I wrote about in the thread referenced above it's really very simple. First coat only your repair area. Second coat start slightly beyond your repair area and finish slightly past the repair area. Third coat extend past the second coat. Fourth coat (if neccesary) reduce the base with some blender and carry out past you previous coat. Be progressive with the trigger when starting and stopping. Keep the gun moving as you start, and moving as you finish.
 
Back
Top