What color of epoxy to buy if my final color is this....

P

Phoenix

this blue

2011_ford_f150_blue.jpg
 
take a picture of the color you want, turn it black and white, that's your best color of primer to use
 
Exactly, the equal tone is what you want to match. Full coverage is full coverage but if the substrate is equal in tone to the color it should equal the same value of full coverage with less coats than if it's way different. For that color I would probably 50/50 black and grey or try 2:3
 
While I agree completely with all of the advice posted by others, keep in mind if you are trying to match that color on a repair, you will likely need to use the same color sealer as the factory used before final color was applied to make matching easier. Also, some paint companies will recommend the sealer color for best coverage and best possible match (DBC and Standox have this information, not sure on others). Again, don't take this as an argument to any of the information given by others, just wanted to mention it in case you were trying to do a spot or panel repair. If you are using the color on an all over then the others are spot on. I would think anything from regular gray to a gray and black mixture would do well with that color. I do suspect that it is a "high transparency" color and you may want to consider using a cheaper solid color of blue as the first coat to increase coverage of that color if price is an issue. Just a few thoughts.

Kelly
 
i have never been a fan of value shade. dupont got a lot of folks in trouble with it. a light sealer is always better. i use black under black but for most anything else i use light gray. a tinted sealer will give you a false sense of coverage .
 
I agree Shine, I don't even know if anyone still offers the tinted sealers now days? With PPG and Standox they recommend black, gray, or white, depending on final color for best coverage and color match. I should have been more clear with my comment, but I didn't even think about the shaded sealers. Also, by the "cheaper color of solid blue" I was meaning that if budget is an issue, he may save money using a solid color close to his final metallic/pearl color to help with coverage. I wasn't meaning to use a cheaper line or lower quality of paint, just a lower priced color. Sorry for the lack of clarity.

Kelly
 
with the money and time , 4 years, i got in this , this is not time to go cheap on the paints.
 
Everyone has their own ideas about coverage and sealer colors. Some colors are very difficult to achieve hiding, new yellows that are chromium-free, for example. I think if someone is going to try and use a sealer to "help" coverage, first they need to do a sprayout on a black/white test panel with only the paint to see how many coats it takes to cover. If it's four or less it really doesn't matter what color sealer you use, the base will easily hide it. But if it's five or more, sometimes it pays to find either the right shade of sealer OR a high coverage "ground coat" made from a solid basecoat color that will help hide the sealer underneath. In these case where the ILLUSION of full coverage is to be attempted, more sprayouts need to be made with the sealer or groundcoat of choice, followed by the desired number of color coats. All panels should be cleared and compared to the first "pure" sprayout sample that was done with only basecoat. If the illusion of coverage has been achieved, the panels will look the same in bright sunlight, pay special attention to the "flop," the way the color looks at an angle. That is where our eyes can best see down through the layers of pigment, and any problem will show up.
 
Thanks Crash, that is what I was trying to say, but I am not very good at translating my thoughts into text sometimes. I never meant to sound as if I were recommending he use a cheaper line or lower quality of paint, just that he may benefit from a sealer color choice, or the solid color ground coat, if the final color is high transparency.

Kelly
 
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