What do you guys think of this product?

Chad.S

Chad.S

Oldtimer
It is also available in the same quantities as the gibbs, good chance it's the same product..
 
I sent them an email asking them how to use there protectant and I also asked for a MSDS
 
Look at the bottom (MFG by Gibbs)
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I think most of the metal workers will have a way of keeping rust away, because metal work takes so long and it needs to be bare while working on it.
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The one in the middle is aluminum, but the others are steel.
 
Thats exactly why it would be nice to be bare, I find that i'm epoxying then stripping to make panels then priming etc etc, it's only on the projects that need more panel replacement or custom metal work, i've always blasted, then right to epoxy but some of these cars are just getting more metal work. Not saying this is the answer but I am curious..

Also wondering about using on my rear disc brakes, I am having a issue with surface rust on the disc, not the surface where the pad contacts but between wheel and pad, also debating epoxy if it will take the heat??

and gibbs it is. maybe if you get msds sheet we can see what is in it? depends on how detailed it is. I wouldn't want to introduce a contamination issue to a project either. I don't know, really on the fence with it but see some advantages for certain projects.
 
i will continue to epoxy. no big deal to clean an edge or strip to weld on . and yes all sheetmetal shops will use a lube of some kind when working metal. but 90% of you will never be in that situation. but what you must remember is every solvent of any kind that you introduce into the job is one more thing you have to address before paint.
i have been in this business for over 40 years and have lost enough over the years to product failures and new and improved products to fund a good retirement. people are quick to recommend things but they will not be the one footing the bill for a massive redo. one high end failure can ruin you. several can put you out of business . ask all the shops who got bit by the soda thing in the beginning . keep it simple .
 
The msds isn't real revealling.

Petroleum distillate is the secret ingrediant.
 
Chad, epoxy works great on the rotors. I blast them then mask off the friction surface and shoot them with epoxy and they hold up great, The vented ones are a PITA to spray though.
 
Bob Hollinshead;17730 said:
Chad, epoxy works great on the rotors. I blast them then mask off the friction surface and shoot them with epoxy and they hold up great, The vented ones are a PITA to spray though.
Click to expand...

Bob, have you ever tried dipping them?
I read on a website how a guy took his new rotors and cleaned them real well, coated the friction surfaces with vasoline, then held them in a pan of paint and poured it through the vents. The pictures looked great.
 
Dipping makes sense-I bet it does work good. I haven't tried it, even a trough just large enough to set part of the vented area submersed and just rotate the rotor so the vents get coated would work.
 
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