what to put on rust

R

ryan1

what to put on rust

dont use acid

rust convertors

or por 15

sand blast

or soda blast

what are you gus using? epoxy?

tried doing a search .....thanks ahead of time 2012-05-02_20-49-24_621.jpg

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you can clean that up with naval jelly ... BUT IT HAS TO BE RINSED WHILE WET ! dont believe the bs on other sites about ospho .
 
I second the naval jelly, it'e a lot of work and takes some time for it to do it's job, but it almost draws out the rust out of the pits so you aren't compromising the metal by trying to grind or sand it off. I brush it on pretty heavy and cover w/ sarahn wrap to keep it from evaporating. Let it sit over night, wipe off and rinse real good, DA w/ 80 grit and repeat as neccesary.

This hood was worse than it looks i nthe pictures and it came out very nice. (sorry for the large pictures)

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The roof was worse, but also came out pretty good.

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There are parts that seem impossible to remove all trace of rust...inner hood supports ..pinch seams ...inside cowls....trunks ...doors..etc.

It just seems like theres alot of things that are saying dont use acids or blast..just epoxy it or am i asking to much from one product.
 
You clean every area that is accessible, on inner structure that's rusted to the point that the strength is compromised you'll have to open it up and replace, on inner structure that is lightly rusted but still has good structural integrity but is inaccessible for rust removal you will need to coat those areas with something to keep the rust from growing-people use epoxy, cavity wax, Cosmoline, Rustoleum, POR15, rustproofing, paint...any of these will provide a level of protection. You don't want any acid going anywhere that it can't be removed from. Seams need to be protected/coated internally and sealed externally if at all possible.
 
This is my first post here and I'm sorry to hijack!

Is there any brand of naval jelly that's recommended? And how do I use it? The roof on my Camaro is like the hood and roof in post #4. I sanded it with 50 grit with my DA and made it as smooth as glass. However, I can still see the surface rust. I bought a 20 gal. pressurized blaster. I used Black Diamond 40/80 grit and it works good. It just takes forever. Between my dads compressor not working right and figuring out how much to open each valve, it's just not working as good as I thought it would. I probably have 4 to 6 hours into blasting my roof and I don't even have 1/4 of it done.

I want to take care of the roof ASAP so I can spray my SPI epoxy primer on it and skim coat it with Rage Gold Body Filler. I'm getting desperate.

Thanks, NYH1.
 
permatex brand works fine, another option is to use this: http://www.wmbarr.com/product.aspx?catid=32&prodid=81

The Home Depot carries this in my area, It's around $15/gallon, saturate paper towels and lay them on the surface of the panel and let them set, slide them away and scrub the surface with a maroon scotchbrite, repeat untill all the rust has been loosened-then RINSE WELL WITH WATER and DA the surface then clean for primer. Don't try to prime over any residue left, make sure to wash it completely off before sanding, straight isopropyl alcohol as a last stage before drying will reduce flash rusting-waterborne Wax and Grease remover also works.
 
Bob Hollinshead, thanks for the info, I really appreciate it. Which works better, the Permatex or Klean Strip? I have to do most of my roof so it's a fairly large area. Also, I bought a gal. of SPI Waterborne Wax and Grease Remover (PT# 700-1) when I bought my epoxy and activator.

Another question. Will the epoxy primer seal any small rust pits from expanding? Or will any rust at all left ruin my paint sooner or later? I'm not a body and paint guy. I'm trying to do as much as I can because my budget is extremely tight.

Thanks again, NYH1.
 
Will the SPI epoxy primer seal any small rust pits from expanding? Or will any rust at all left ruin my paint sooner or later?

Thanks, NYH1.
 
You want the majority of the corrosion gone, any random spots the acid won't break loose you can usually get clean with a hand held spot sand blaster, the cleaner the better but if there's a little bit left and you apply 2-3 good coats of epoxy it will stop it from growing for at least a lifetime.
 
NYH1, how do you like that little voodoo cam? I've got the same cam in a 9-1 355 I'm building for the wife's cruizer.
 
A little story first. In 1990, I was 15, until December lol. I bought a '78 Camaro, it was a basic 305, auto with 2.41 gears that was "Dark Blue-Green Metallic" with a Willow Green interior. Someone put a 350 in it. The body was pretty bad but I really wanted the car so I paid $500 for it. About 5 years later we replaced every panel on the car except the roof, deck lid, some of the floor and front windshield and rear window. My dad had to fab up a replacement for the right rear frame rail. I had it painted a dark maroon color and changed the interior to red. I didn't mind doing all this. I knew what needed to be done when I bought it. And I learned a lot.

I also built a SBC 406 w/10.5:1 comp., Crane Solid Cam (244/252 @ .050, .518"/.536" lift, 106 LSA), Dart Sportsman II Heads, Weiand Team G Intake, Holley 750 DP, TH350 with a 10" 3800 stall conv., 4.10 gears, 3" 2 chamber Flowmasters that dumped just in front of the rear end. The car went 12.50's at 106 to 108 MPH without me knowing how to setup the suspension or really tuning it. My 60' times were almost 2 seconds. I know it would have gone faster. Above I said that I learned a lot, I did. I learned that I didn't really like driving it. It was way to loud, rode like crap, turned horribly, all it did was go fast straight. So I kind of did a sell/trade and got rid of it.

The last 4 or 5 years I wanted to get another car from the late 60's to late 70's era. In July 2009 I found my current '78 Camaro, "Dark Blue-Green Metallic" with a Willow Green interior. . .same car that I had. It was a done deal and it's in a lot better shape then my first one was in too. I'm going to keep it the original color and make a true daily driver out of it. I'm not sure if I'm going to keep the willow green interior or change it to black. The guy I bought it from started to change it to black, so it's half way there.

The engine wasn't to strong though. So I built a mild 385 stroker for it (.040" over). I wanted a engine that made a lot of low end torque and mid range power that was very street friendly. So I bought a Scat Internally Balanced Rotating Assembly with their 3.750" stroke 9000 series cast crank with 6" forged rods and KB forged pistons. I also bought Summit Vortec Heads which are made by Dart. With the RPM intake, 650 AVS carb. and the 262/268 Voodoo cam it's just what I wanted. It makes a ton of torque, pulls strong up to 5800 RPM. Works great with the rest of my setup. And pulls 20 inches of vacuum at idle in gear.

Driving at 30 to 40 MPH or so, it'll drop down into 1st gear if I step on it and lay a set of stripes until it shifts into 2nd and it gains speed. If I nail it from a dead stop, it's almost as bad as driving on snow, it just sits there and spins the tires. Then it drives as mild as my truck if I drive it normal. I'm very happy with the cam. I might go with a set of GMPP Small Port Vortec Bowtie Heads down the road. They flow really well at low and mid lift levels up to .550" lift or so. I've read that they work really well up to 6000 to 6200 RPM in 350/383 engines. They'd probably work really well with my cam too.

Sorry for the long rant, NYH1!
 
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