Working with fiberglass?

Jim C said:
cant comment on the vpa that chris recommended since i have never used it but what i can highly recommend is adtech p14 or p17 filler. works like a regular filler but its a solid structural plastic when cured so its hard and has strength. wont soak up solvents or shrink. its highly heat resistant as well. in the marine world, its really popular. def ditch the regular filler. the glaze you have is fine for filling pinholes, etc. after a wash your going to want to wipe that gel down with acetone or urethane reducer. god only know what type of release they used on their molds. could be wax, frecoat, pva. you just never know.
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i use the p17 regularly its the best filler i have found its pretty wild stuff
 
zachm said:
i use the p17 regularly its the best filler i have found its pretty wild stuff
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if you look at the tds for it it has 4x the tensile stregth of 3m platinum,an 3x the flex strength of it and stands uo to 400 degrees. sands a little harder but is worth it to me
 
Thanks for all the great info! One thing I'm confused about: Is it absolutely necessary to cut off the air supply to fiberglass (via a wax additive added to gel coat, or coating with PVA) to get it to cure, or does that just speed up the cure?
 
With out it the outer skin will never cure. You will need to wipe it down with acetone to remove the skin
 
Well how would you spread filler on wet gelcoat? if its 1/2 kicked it may be fine. Its really best if you just the correct gel or use pva, sand then apply filler
 
I did some repair work and modifications to a rear seat delete insert for my 66 fastback project last summer. I applied fiberglass mat and resin for the repairs, then went over the top with filler to finish. Everything seems fine. It did seem tacky for a while after the initial set up and before I applied filler.
 
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