Clausen All-U-Need vs Slick Sand?

Right at 70 degrees today. Ok. That’s the same for me. One pass with 2.0 and I’m moving quick. The “3 slow passes” just surprised me.
 
theastronaut said:
I've always used Slick Sand over epoxy after filler work but have recently seen quite a few very high-end shops post that they're using Clausen All-U-Need. Has anyone compared the two directly? The fact that it's water/solvent proof is appealing as that's a concern I've had with Slick Sand. How does it sand compared to Slick Sand? Slick Sand isn't the easiest to sand ( I always start with 80 grit) but it builds great and doesn't shrink so I've stuck with it, but I'm open to using other products if they're better.

For reference, I've been shooting epoxy, then skim coating the entire assembled body, a coat of epoxy to seal that, then 3-4 coats of Slick Sand for enough build to really be able to block the body straight. Before I switched to SPI I would shoot a couple coats of PPG sealer/surfacer before light wetsanding and paint, and I was always afraid of breaking through the sealer to Slick Sand. Same thing now except I'm using epoxy as sealer. So it would be great to have a waterproof poly primer, I just haven't heard much feedback on All-U-Need.

Link to product page-

Clausen | The World's Premier Polyester Glazing Putties & Autobody Fillers

www.clausenautobody.com www.clausenautobody.com
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I came across this SPI message lot after looking up All U Need info - and I then saw the quality of messages by the members here - '99.0%' seem to be offering great advice to other members, and me personally, I have taken away things from this to help improve my project work - thanks everyone. And I really enjoyed your list of THE ASTRONAUT's projects. That 1966 F-100 restoration is NEATO. Just a suggestion - be careful with SODA BLASTING - if you do not 100.0% neutralise it - it can cause issues at a future time. Has the engine block paint had any issues? HA - I thought I was the only one with a 'perfectionist streak' that made people say - 'Nobody will see that, why bother?" - HA - my answer to them - "Yes - but I know it is there - done right - whether out of sight of others or not" - HA. Thank you for the time you have taken to share your knowledge and well done of the projects. - I really ENJOYED looking over the phots and reading the comments. Have a safe and nice day all. CHEERS from AUSTRALIA.
 
I think I'm going to give All u Need a try on my next car, 57 vette. For those of you that have used it, how long do you wait after applying SPI epoxy over the bare fiberglass (or metal), before spraying All U Need?
 
ksungela said:
I think I'm going to give All u Need a try on my next car, 57 vette. For those of you that have used it, how long do you wait after applying SPI epoxy over the bare fiberglass (or metal), before spraying All U Need?
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48 hours minimum for any poly primer, Clausen included.
 
I agree with Chris, but I think if there is a reason to want to go faster, one coat of epoxy 1:1:1 can be shot the next morning with poly. I've done this a few times with problem collision repairs.

Don't try the 1:1:1 trick and think you can hit it with poly in an hour, it can be a mess, ask how I know lol.
 
This thread has me rethinking my approach, and since I'm early (striping to metal) I can adjust now. I like the non shrinking, high build, waterproof aspects I'm hearing with Clausens/Rust defender. I was going to take this route:

strip
hammer/dolly and welding were needed
epoxy
rage ultra where needed
epoxy
2K high build
epoxy sealer
Base
Clear


I am thinking I mat want to adjust to:
strip
hammer/dolly and welding were needed
epoxy
rage ultra where neede and as a skim coat
epoxy
Rust defender

This is the point where I have questions

I will block after the Rust defender

Is it ok to leave it in this state inside over winter (non heated shop)?
Should I epoxy seal over it before base?
If I need a little more blocking work after temps rewarm, is it appropriate to use 2K high bild to tweak out any areas needed over this? If so should I epoxy between RD and 2K high build?
 
Crash clarified things, I should have added 48 hours for 2 coats of epoxy. According to Barry. one coat @ 1:1 you can apply poly after 26 hours.
 
aviator8 said:
This thread has me rethinking my approach, and since I'm early (striping to metal) I can adjust now. I like the non shrinking, high build, waterproof aspects I'm hearing with Clausens/Rust defender. I was going to take this route:

strip
hammer/dolly and welding were needed
epoxy
rage ultra where needed
epoxy
2K high build
epoxy sealer
Base
Clear


I am thinking I mat want to adjust to:
strip
hammer/dolly and welding were needed
epoxy
rage ultra where neede and as a skim coat
epoxy
Rust defender

This is the point where I have questions

I will block after the Rust defender

Is it ok to leave it in this state inside over winter (non heated shop)?
Should I epoxy seal over it before base?
If I need a little more blocking work after temps rewarm, is it appropriate to use 2K high bild to tweak out any areas needed over this? If so should I epoxy between RD and 2K high build?
Click to expand...
I use the second method and I have left it for months in Rust Defender before continuing on with epoxy, turbo etc.

Don
 
I have a charger sitting out side with rust defender on it, so far no issues.. It's a gamble for sure and I will probably strip it if I ever decide to work on it again but I am guessing it's been about 10 years now outside, and probably five inside before I pushed it out. . I sure wish I had epoxy on it though.
 
dhutton01 said:
Clausen Z-Chrome Rust Defender is the same as All U Need just a different color. It costs a little less. I have been using both for several years. It sands easier than Slick Sand imho. I like the built in guide coat for the first round of sanding. I spray it with a Sata poly gun with a 2.5 tip.

Best price I have found is on eBay.

Don
Click to expand...
Is this the same stuff?

Amazon.com: CLAUSEN Z-Chrome Rust Defender Hi-Build Polyester Primer, 1 Gallon : Automotive

Buy CLAUSEN Z-Chrome Rust Defender Hi-Build Polyester Primer, 1 Gallon: Primers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
 
I just bought a gallon to try direct from Clausen...and they didn't charge me sales tax and I'm in state. Tell them you want to try it and you won't have to buy a case of 4.
 
ksungela said:
I just bought a gallon to try direct from Clausen...and they didn't charge me sales tax and I'm in state. Tell them you want to try it and you won't have to buy a case of 4.
Click to expand...
I did not know that, thanks, I thought you had to buy 4.
 
Aviator- I did
aviator8 said:
This thread has me rethinking my approach, and since I'm early (striping to metal) I can adjust now. I like the non shrinking, high build, waterproof aspects I'm hearing with Clausens/Rust defender. I was going to take this route:

strip
hammer/dolly and welding were needed
epoxy
rage ultra where needed
epoxy
2K high build
epoxy sealer
Base
Clear


I am thinking I mat want to adjust to:
strip
hammer/dolly and welding were needed
epoxy
rage ultra where neede and as a skim coat
epoxy
Rust defender

This is the point where I have questions

I will block after the Rust defender

Is it ok to leave it in this state inside over winter (non heated shop)?
Should I epoxy seal over it before base?
If I need a little more blocking work after temps rewarm, is it appropriate to use 2K high bild to tweak out any areas needed over this? If so should I epoxy between RD and 2K high build?
Click to expand...
aviator, I did second method you described exactly... I loved the results
 
What is the difference between the skim coat of Rage and the Clausens ?
Kinda the same principle.
 
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