My fault, the UV clear ran on my passenger door

T

TWINRAY

It was in an area where I had bad visability and I didn't respect the vertical surface. I shouldn't have overlapped so much and should have been moving a bit faster. I was figuring on doing a bit of #400 blocked then moving to #600 blocked. I've heard about the razor blade technique but don't think that is for me. Once flat, I'd like to do another coat. Is there a window of time in which I have to do that application? Thanks

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I guess if it were easy, everyone would br painting their own cars.
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That was after the 2nd coat but I was doing 80% overlap and, as you can see, moving much too slow. A gallon went on the car, 1969 Corvette - 2 gallons total with activator. Including hardtop, fliplid and (of course ) the hood. I wanted 3 coats but stopped after the runs. The back deck and rear fenders got 3 coats.
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It's not a terrible run. I use the razor blade to shave the high spots of the run first as is doesn't wear down the low spots. Most importantly, give it time to harden up properly before attempting any repair.
 
Don't stop painting just because you get a run. Then again, if you really put two gallons of clear on there, it might be amazing there aren't more runs. If I get a run that size, I'll usually put another coat in the area of the run, then go around once more after some good flash time to ensure there is enough film build around the run to keep from breaking through.
 
crashtech said:
Don't stop painting just because you get a run. Then again, if you really put two gallons of clear on there, it might be amazing there aren't more runs. If I get a run that size, I'll usually put another coat in the area of the run, then go around once more after some good flash time to ensure there is enough film build around the run to keep from breaking through.
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Thanks, I'll put that in my memory bank. I guess I should have gone with a 3rd coat like my original plan. To be clear, 1 gallon of UV clear + 1 gallon of activator is what I put on. Cooler weather is my enemy now. Take care.
 
For most runs I use a fat tip water proof marker and scribble around the area. It works so much better as a visual aid to control sanding and I have tried so many techniques. I'll start taking down a run with a nib file until flat with the surroundings as evident by the marker then switch to 1000 grit on a piece of maple wood to finish sanding until the marker is gone on the surrounding areas. Try it, you'll be pleasantly surprised how well it works at controlling where you sand and when to stop. I use the marker technique for highlighting missed sand scratches and sand until the marker is gone.
 
Thanks all for you advise and suggestions. The car sat in the booth yesterday. I want to have it sit in the sun for a day. I think I will be most comfortable to first try #600 blocking the runs out. Then do my #1000, 1500, 2000, and 2500 color sanding. Hopefully that will still leave me with enough product so I can still buff. Weatherwise, I think my time applying more clear is done for this year in NY. You all Stay Cool.
 
Let it sit in the sun a couple days, those runs will still be soft even though the rest is harder. I would use 400gt first with a hard block with soapy water. The soapy water will help with the run grabbing the paper, use light pressure so you don't tear the clear after that let it sit another day in the sun then use 600gt with a hard block let it sit another day in the sun then you should be good to finish out the sanding steps down to the final grit of your choice then buff or you can reapply a couple more coats of clear on that panel to make sure you have adequate mills. You can also use a guide coat on that area of a contrasting color to assist with making sure you are sanding only the run and not the surrounding area which will lead to problems. There will be some warm days comming so it can still be done this year I'm sure.

Short of that little hick-up looks real nice.
 
Pulled it out today to get some uv rays and plan my course of repair. Weather reports forecast a NG paint week coming up. Rear deck and rear fenders came out real good. 3 "coats" of clear, 2 heavy, last not so heavy.

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Today I want to blackout the underside of the hood. I still have to do the underside of the fliplid. I may not do an epoxy sealer on the underside so I can do base/clear in 1 day. Maybe today.
 
Followed Shine's advice of tape and #320. Then went gingerly with 600 and 800. Will proceed very carefully in this area.
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