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We came up with this: Either find dies that fit or turn them on the lathe. It does reach to where the rivets go. Edit: The Stimpson tool is still made (apx. $350) but I don't see dies for hollow rivets. Die sets apx $140 for others. The new machines are cast aluminum. The one on my bench is so...

Yea, I need to do eight 3/16" & four 1/4".

I didn't know Harley sold a rivet tool. But not surprised it is limited in function. I considered machining the dies and using a heavy duty c-clamp. But by the time I work all that out I can use the time to earn and just buy what will work. I guess I have less patience in my senior years.

I have the same dilemma with old Harley fenders and the semi tubular rivets. Got the rivets that are a perfect match but need to squeeze them. I think I'm going to buy the squeezer above that Lone Star posted or one like it.

I know Windex is a no-no, it leaves a film. I cleaned a truck with it once prior to applying vinyl lettering and masking tape wouldn't even stick! I mostly use 700 water for that type of cleaning.

I was going to try parkerizing on a firearm but didn't get to it yet (its on the list lol). I think I bought materials to do both manganese and zinc. Which of those are you using?

I haven't heard the term "Japan driers" in years. LOL. The Rustoleum aerosols are the same with recoat time. They are not kidding "second coat within 1 hour or after 48 hours". It can still raise up (wrinkle) at the 2 day mark, probably because there is more solvent in the aerosol.

Let me know how that hardener works. I think that Rust oleum is slow to harden by itself.

Sounds good to me. Where are you getting the tire rub? Outside on the rear quarters?

You think maybe they are only concerned about removing the skin for a new one? You want to reinstall yours.

Cut the skin at the bottom of the posts. The back cut looks like it can be hid under the window chrome. A capable artist can airbrush that patina back. Maybe a bull$hit artist.

Chris did you spray that door years ago when you were learning ?

Yes they are.

It absolutely varies. Longer hose probably more drop, hose ID, fittings factor in. IIRC it was 38 at the wall to get 30 at the gun with 38' of 3/8" hose in my situation. I've been using a regulator lately but next time I clear with the Sata 5000 RP I am going to put on the gauge with no...

It means it takes 5 lbs or so more at the wall to compensate for pressure drop of the hose. Example if you want 30psi at the gun you may need 35psi at the wall. The gauge at the gun verifies what you are getting at the gun. It could vary depending on the hose, ID and length.

I rigged up a set up like that and liked it. Can'y blame any gun regulator for a restriction that way;). If a regulator at the gun is used it should be a diaphragm type and not a cheater valve. I have RTI, some nice small (Chinese?probably) ones I got off of Ebay that work well, and two new...

What! No GTX blue?

I missed that photo. Took me a couple minutes to see where that was located.

Any plan to black out the radiator support behind the grille?

First off, beautiful job. I see the problem is the doors, the rest appears OK. I hesitate to offer what I think will work for you. I think it depends on what base color you have to work with. Extra from the original work or do you need to get more mixed up? Might be a careful blend needed, full...