1966 Valiant for the Other Daughter....

[JimKueneman]

Where was that picture taken? Do you really have that many trees? LOL

By the way, I have two pair of NB sneakers. One for running and the other for working in the garage.

Lakeside-Pinetop

 

[JimKueneman]

Yea I’m suppose to be in the mountains for 2 more weeks. Long story but I’m home for the weekend alone. A few things arrived. The last 2 Continental 60661 upper radiator hoses in existence? And the 60662 for the bottom. The 661 is the correct one with a straight neck and AC. 60666 is straight neck no AC.

 

[JimKueneman]

Grilled. After I selected the correct New Balance shoes. Don @dhutton01 had to break the tie for me.

 

[JimKueneman]

All mocked up and it is all looking great. Will start putting it together for real this week.

The disk brake booster and bolt in ‘73 proportioning valve was a fail. More to come once I get it on the lift and I decide how to do it. The proportioning valve was in the 2” it could not be for the factory manifold, of course.

The Accurate Exhaust would have been perfect if it did not have to space the LH manifold out 0.300” to clear the Edelbrock head. A bit of heat and some careful smacks with a hammer and it fits like a glove. Photos once I move it to the lift.

Need a bit of AC component restoration and get that bolted in. It’s coming together.

 

[OJ86]

I am beyond impressed. Every single detail!

 

[MJM]

Gorgeous Jim,

Another top notch Mopar.

 

[JimKueneman]

Unbelievable. The $$$$$ Bendix Chinese clone booster/MC I bought hits the valve covers.... The day after I learned this someone on the ABody sight wanted to know if a factory '65 power booster/tank setup had value. It sure did to me. It will be here Friday and I have Booster Steve (Booster Exchange) all lined up to rebuild it. NOTHING works/fits like the original thank you very much!

 

[JimKueneman]

Not a huge fan of restoring the AC lines like this but there was no finish left and this is the first item that I have ever had flash rust in the garage in the desert. Seymour’s Stainless Steel rattle can with Universal Clear over it for resistance to chemicals and grease. Many of my to dos are covered here. The main items are welding the dryer back up and finishing the brakes.

 

['68 Coronet R/T]

Ah, the restoration world where anything that can go wrong, will go wrong and when you least expect it. LOL

The car looks fantastic, you definitely have an eye for detail! Can't wait for the car show pics of the family vehicles side by side.

 

[JimKueneman]

Buttoned up the AC lines. Pressure tested it and then pulled a vacuum. Now I know when I weld up the other drier I know if it is the dryer if it leaks. Heater hoses installed, ordered a molded 90 degree for the valve to core. Mounted all the AC and shut off valve brackets. Plasti-dipped the line clamps. Installed a new wire on AC clutch and installed the clutch. Rear ground wire installed. The reproduction 4 barrel throttle cable bracket is a perfect fit (cut off the kickdown linkage). Just need to make sure of the position of the line clamp on the radiator support before drilling.

 

[JimKueneman]

I was so sure I was done blasting. Guess not with the OEM booster. Need to blast and paint the pivot bracket and vacuum tank. The booster is on its way to Washington to Booster Exchange.

 

[JimKueneman]

New yoke seal and ready for the driveshaft next week. Starter cables sorted out and installed. The 73 disk distribution/proportioning block repositioned and it won’t take a lot of work. The front is where I had it and where the 73 A Body lines want it. The rear is were it was. I think I have it in one of the Z bar holes if this was a stick or column shift. K-frame shields installed.

 

[JimKueneman]

Early A dryer. All that is in them is black charcoal, like a fish filter and an string filter. Removed the charcoal and decided to reuse the filter so it has a filter. Inserted a R134 compatible desiccant bag. Made a crude brass sheet insert to make sure the bag did not plug the baffle hole between the cambers. A few bends make it fit tight so it won’t rattle. Make sure you remove the blow out valve before welding or you will melt the solder out! Once I know it works I may do a bit better job of body work to hide the grind marks better. It is holding a vacuum…..

 

[JimKueneman]

 

[JimKueneman]

 

[dhutton01]

Nice work Jim!

 

[JimKueneman]

4 Tons of pressing and some bead blasting got the pin out and the booster linkage is free. The 73 and up valve is mounted and the 73 and up A Body line kit was perfect with minimal Rebending. With a bit more rebending effort one maybe able to use the original rear brake line and not have to extend it but I though this position was perfect for accessibility. The booster brackets and vacuum tank are blasted and painted with SPI epoxy primer. Now just waiting on the booster.

 

[JimKueneman]

Had help bleeding the brakes. I hacked in some lines for manual brakes until the power booster is done. Only fluids left are Dextron 3 and coolant (hose will be here tomorrow). Need to get a loan to buy the Dextron. Good grief.

 

[AAE]

Her one handed steering wheel grab is looking natural. Your crew is gonna look cool rolling down the road.

 

[JimKueneman]

No matter how many times you measure and convince yourself you did it right you always get that uneasy feeling putting that new shortened driveshaft into place. Now my shaft is the right length.