1967 Vette

on dry sanding epoxy . or any paint i guess. when dry sanding i go slow . like planing wood. if you get carried away you heat up the surface and " melt " paint into the paper. lacquer will do the same thing if fresh.

my first cut is 100 dry , 80 if it's bad . then i go wet from there on. water cools and flushes the paper . plus it rinses all the crap away leaving a clean surface.
 
jeremyb;7099 said:
thanks! and to think......the customer sent it down here from ny, for "some" spot repairs........lol.
Click to expand...

Seems like a lot of projects start out that way.
 
finally paint!

P1070998.jpg

P1070997.jpg

P1070996.jpg

P1070987.jpg

P1070982.jpg

P1070981.jpg

P1080001.jpg


Sikkens 140 deep black off the machine, spi universal clear.

debated single stage then cut and clear......but honestly after cutting and buffing the spi clear, the difference would be minimal. the 140 is one of the deepest blacks out there and the spi clear makes all the difference in the world.
 
thanks guys! yes just sprayed it this morning. i actually sprayed the clear with my iwata lph 1.4. i usually use my w-400 1.4 but it took a crap on me.....and never have liked using my 1.3 lph for clear on overalls.....even though it does good enough....so i just grabbed the 1.4 and went to town. i might not even fix my w400! lol.

Fan all the way open.....about 25-28 psi......fluid about 1.5 turns in from all the way out.
 
No surprise, your work always looks excellent. A nice car like that Corvette makes it look even better!

I have never even held a iwata, so I am wondering why you are using "all the way out" as a referece for your fluid turns. Do those guns have a stop? I'm just curious why you don't count turns off the seat.
 
different ways of doing it i suppose..thats the way i was taught...i run the fluid all the way out and pull the trigger and start turning it in......as soon as it starts moving the trigger i know i'm 100% out..dial in from there. i'm backwards at a lot of things!!
 
Fantastic, if dailing the lph-400 backwards produces those results. . .count me in.
 
Looks nice-n-wet! I love that UV clear! Should look like a million bucks after the cut and buff or are you going to sand and flow coat it first?
 
just going to cut and buff. I want to flow coat it bad because its black, but just isn't going to happen on this job. It will still look awesome when done buffing..will start with 800.

The DOI of the universal is just crazy....I have a dash piece for a camaro i painted black..cleared...cut it down and recleared with universal and is just beautiful...wish i could get the cars to come out that way!! lol. a lot of guys i talk to around here beat themselves up too much about getting the car slick out of the booth.......mine all get cut and buffed no matter what. get the clear on wet and even and enough coats to cut.

there are a lot of places on these old cars that you dont want to have a run in..i actually enjoy cutting and buffing..dont ask why. Honestly think there isn't 1 run on this vette. i did something wrong?
 
Is a flow coat to be sprayed different? Im assuming since you just cut out the urethane wave, you don't want to put any back on the car. Any tips? Do you reduce the clear at all?
 
You can reduce the clear but either way the second application of clear will flow better than the first.
 
WOW, just saw this and I already gave the 140 black number to James, his son is bigwig for Sikkens and said for him to get a gallon for my Sequoia, was waiting for jobber to get in new black from Spies but just decided, I have waited to long. LOL

Is a 225,000 mile Sequoia justified looking like that vete???
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top