1968 Plymouth GTX

I have never been a Mopar guy, but I have been playing graveyard cars a lot in my background noise at my desk and its incredible the knowledge some people have on these old cars.

I know most don't like the show probably, but just seeing all of these Mopar's is making me fall for them a little!
 
orangejuiced86 said:
I have never been a Mopar guy, but I have been playing graveyard cars a lot in my background noise at my desk and its incredible the knowledge some people have on these old cars.

I know most don't like the show probably, but just seeing all of these Mopar's is making me fall for them a little!
Click to expand...

I have owned a number of Fords, a 68 Chevelle, a 66 Pontiac GTO and some other muscle cars. One of my uncles bought a brand new '69 Mach 1 that I got to ride in and was very impressed. However my other uncle, bought a brand new '68 Plymouth GTX when he came home for Vietnam.

It was a 4 speed and when he jumped on it, I couldn't pull my head up from the back of the seat until he shifted and then it would get slammed into the seat again. That thing would bury the 150 mph speedometer with ease.

Then my best friend in high school bought a '68 Charger R/T. In those days as the guys with hot cars left the school parking lot they would see who could burn rubber the farthest. Two guys won every time, my friend with the Charger and another guy with a hopped up Superbee.

Most of the lighter weight muscle cars were too squirrely and they had to let off the gas before they lost control.
 
Started stripping the deck lid to get it ready for epoxy primer, then I noticed some rust on the inside of the tail panel mounting portion.
I remembered how bad the hood and roof skin were so decided to remove the trunk lid skin as well.

Looking along the edge I thought I saw a couple of spot welds and drilled them out. Turned out there weren't any spot welds.
Removing Deck Lid Skin.JPG


Nothing along the front edge:
Removing Deck Lid Skin - no spot welds.JPG


Got to the other side and was absolutely certain I saw a spot weld but again there weren't any.
Removing Deck Lid Skin 1.JPG


I am wondering if what I saw were actually pinch points?
Hoping to get the skin off tomorrow. The rear edge looks as though it will be the toughest.
 
I took pictures of the adhesive spots just for reference.
Underside of skin adhesive spots.jpg


I marked the centerline with a pencil so I could take some measurements for the spots not near the openings.
After this I took a propane torch with Mapp gas and slightly heated up the hardened adhesive spots and they scraped off easily with a chisel.

Next I straightened all the edges and dents with hammer and dolly. Did the same on the frame and then test fitted everything back together.
Test fitting skin after staightening edges.JPG


Took it back apart and IF the weather cooperates I will get it all media blasted and then in epoxy primer this week.
 
I used the 3M 04274 on the hood and roof skin. Not sure if I have any left or if it's still good..
It was close to $50 for the cartridge, so it would be nice to know if the IES will work in my gun?
 
Started media blasting the frame today. The colder temperatures kept causing condensation on the inside of the plastic view port. It was very slow going, having to stop and dry the thing off every couple of minutes.

Rain in the forecast for tomorrow, so I may need to wait a while longer before getting back at it.
Media Blasting the Frame.JPG
 
JimKueneman said:
How did you release the adhesive/sealant?
Click to expand...
On a Mustang hood, the spots of adhesive were all close enough to openings to use a putty knife. Had to use a hammer to cut through it by chipping a little at a time with each spot. No spot welds were needed, but it did have about 6.
 
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