1968 Plymouth GTX
- Thread starter '68 Coronet R/T
- Start date
MJM
Promoted Users
How long can you let sprayed base sit before clearing?
MJM
Promoted Users
Years according to Jim C.. At least that is my recollection.
Don
Learn something new every day. I find it interesting that the clear doesn't need a chemical or mechanical bond to adhere too base coat that has sat for days, weeks or months.
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'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Thanks guys.
Here's one coat of base:
I do have a 1/2 gallon UV clear dated 2012 and slow activator dated 2018. They both look good but I don't want to risk it.
Here's one coat of base:
I do have a 1/2 gallon UV clear dated 2012 and slow activator dated 2018. They both look good but I don't want to risk it.
Dean Jenkins
Promoted Users
Wow! Looks great..
I wouldn't risk it either. Too much good work to have to sand it back off.
What clear are you going to use?
JimKueneman
Mopar Nut
B3 or B5? I can't quite decide...
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Euro Clear.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Yes, the rotisserie gives access to areas you would otherwise have to be a contortion artist to get to.
My only regret is I didn't buy it 20 years ago.
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Paint Code is Q
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Yes, it is called Electric Blue Metallic.
rusty428cj
Rusty Gillis
That is going to look AWESOME!!
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
Second coat of base:
Placed my order online for 2 gallons of Euro and 2 gallons of slow reducer.
Today, I had to use Medium reducer for the last 6 oz. of base I mixed to finish engine compartment. Temps forecast in the mid 80s so I really prefer using the slow reducer.
I have two specs of dust. What do you guys use to remove nibs?
Placed my order online for 2 gallons of Euro and 2 gallons of slow reducer.
Today, I had to use Medium reducer for the last 6 oz. of base I mixed to finish engine compartment. Temps forecast in the mid 80s so I really prefer using the slow reducer.
I have two specs of dust. What do you guys use to remove nibs?
'68 Coronet R/T
Oldtimer
While waiting for my supplies to arrive I decided to work on the steering wheel.
It was quite dry and cracked and I tried spraying two coats of epoxy on it and sanding it but not enough build.
This is what I started with.
Here is where it was as of today:
I remembered that I had some E-Z Lam clear epoxy that was much thicker.
Mixed some up and applied one coat using a small paint brush.
Close up:
It has a 30 minute work time and then takes a minimum of 24 hours to cure.
It was quite dry and cracked and I tried spraying two coats of epoxy on it and sanding it but not enough build.
This is what I started with.
Here is where it was as of today:
I remembered that I had some E-Z Lam clear epoxy that was much thicker.
Mixed some up and applied one coat using a small paint brush.
Close up:
It has a 30 minute work time and then takes a minimum of 24 hours to cure.
MJM
Promoted Users
If nobody is going to help you with your dust nibs question, PM me. I'll help you, it's pretty simple.
If its only a couple of small nibs, take some 1000 grit and solvent w/g remover and sand them out, then just rebase the areas.
When doing overalls, I will typically lay out 2 coats of base and then I used either a sanding sponge like these and go over the entire car and rebase with 2 more coats, might seem like overkill, but with bright silvers its worked out well for me.
or I also like the tolecut sheets:
When doing overalls, I will typically lay out 2 coats of base and then I used either a sanding sponge like these and go over the entire car and rebase with 2 more coats, might seem like overkill, but with bright silvers its worked out well for me.
or I also like the tolecut sheets: