1968 Plymouth GTX

You definitely have a system for painting different panels at different times especially considering it is metalic. I would not because by the time I did a different panel I would forget everything I did previously :p and all the panels would look different:eek:.
 
You definitely have a system for painting different panels at different times especially considering it is metalic. I would not because by the time I did a different panel I would forget everything I did previously :p and all the panels would look different:eek:.
I think the Motobase LV is a quality paint and makes this much easier.

I put three coats on everything just to make sure I have a complete coverage but this stuff looks really good after just two coats. The third coat is really insurance that each panel will look the same.

The door is sitting on the edge of the table and is supported from the backside with a car battery inside a plastic case. A bungee cord secures the door to the battery case. Not the greatest set up but I get by with it and keeps the door oriented as if it were on the car.
 
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Buffed the door and installed. Still need to cut and buff the front fender:
Installed.JPG



Installed 3.JPG


Color match.JPG
 
Color match door to rear quarter panel:
Door to Quarter Panel Match.JPG


Door to front fender:
Door to Fender Match.JPG


This is one of those colors that looks different from every angle and whether in sunlight or shade.
At one angle it looks perfectly matched then from another angle not so great. I thought maybe I had messed up the door. So I took these two pictures just to be sure.
 
I restored the Splash Shield I bought off eBay.
Started with this:
As Purchased.JPG


Used a heat gun and chisel to remove the under coating, then a trip to the blast cabinet, a little paint and new gaskets:
Complete.JPG


Then I tackled the grille insert:
Grille Insert Repainted.jpg


Still need to disassemble the frame and try to restore the upper and lower chrome pieces. Not looking forward to that part.
 
Jim, what width do you gap your panels for before paint? Also, I know you fit up all those panels prior to painting. How do you go back to that alignment without chipping paint? Do you pin any of that to facilitate ease of alignment?
 
I measured the hinge placement on the car so I could put them in the exact same place after painting.
This takes care of the height adjustment, which is the most critical when it comes to preventing scratching when installing doors by yourself.
My wife bought me an adjustable stool with a Harley motorcycle seat on it. :) I use that to hold the door up, while I guide it slowly into place and bolt the door to the hinges. From there it is mainly adjusting the top and bottom of the door, in or out to get things back where they were.
 
After all the hours aligning the doors to the quarter panel and front fender, I didn't want to lose what I considered a perfect setting so..........

I welded the hinges to the body and to the door.


Just kidding :p
 
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Topside sprayed today.
Hood Freshly Clear Coated 2.JPG


Sprayed the inserts as well:
Hood Inserts.JPG


These came with a thin plastic gasket formed to fit the back side. Trying to find a source for them.
And the 440 callout inserts need some work:
440 Callouts.jpg
 
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Wet sanded the hood with 1000 on a hard block. It is easy to see progress because it dulls the surface.
Second step in my way of doing it, is to sand with 1500 to remove all the 1000 grit scratches. This is more difficult to see, so I use 3M Dry Guide coat.
You can see below how it highlights the scratches I missed.
Hood P1500 with Guide Coat 1.jpg


I will do the same when sanding with 2000 grit before getting the buffer out.
 
I am having trouble getting paint to dry on the 440 emblem inserts for the hood pictured above. The same paint worked great on other parts so it has me wondering why it stays soft and easily removed on these?

Media blasted them, buffed the 440 portion and then taped off and painted two times now with same results. If they are aluminum would that cause it?
 
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