P
PaulVolle
Hello! I'm doing my first-ever restoration with not much experience at anything. It's a '66 Mustang I drove in high school and have owned for 41 years and I'm planning to drive it regularly when it's done. It's already been blasted with glass and Holdtight 102. The Holdtight has done an amazing job of retarding rust development, so I've been able to take my time figuring out how to apply primer.
My question is about rust-proofing the structure supporting the roof and sail area and the inner surface of the quarter panel between the door jamb and wheel well. There are lots of options! And lots of conflicting advice.
Epoxy, as I understand it, needs clean metal with a good scratch on it, which isn't practical in these cavities and crevices. Removing and reattaching the sheet metal is well above my skill level right now. Rust converter seems like it would be a good option but I understand that it has tannic acid that doesn't get along with SPI epoxy. There's also Ospho. The bottle says to let it dry 24+ hours, then apply paint …but maybe not epoxy... and I doubt I can effectively remove or neutralize it in these spaces where I can't even get all the blasting material out! I also see Eastwood internal frame coating or rust encapsulator, KBS Cavity Coater, and so many others.
Having looked around the internet at length, the experience and professionalism on this forum stands above the rest and I'm committed to SPI products. I'm sure I don't need to reinvent the wheel on this, so how do you guys treat these hard-to-access inner structures? Or, my new painting motto, WWBD (What Would Barry Do?)
My question is about rust-proofing the structure supporting the roof and sail area and the inner surface of the quarter panel between the door jamb and wheel well. There are lots of options! And lots of conflicting advice.
Epoxy, as I understand it, needs clean metal with a good scratch on it, which isn't practical in these cavities and crevices. Removing and reattaching the sheet metal is well above my skill level right now. Rust converter seems like it would be a good option but I understand that it has tannic acid that doesn't get along with SPI epoxy. There's also Ospho. The bottle says to let it dry 24+ hours, then apply paint …but maybe not epoxy... and I doubt I can effectively remove or neutralize it in these spaces where I can't even get all the blasting material out! I also see Eastwood internal frame coating or rust encapsulator, KBS Cavity Coater, and so many others.
Having looked around the internet at length, the experience and professionalism on this forum stands above the rest and I'm committed to SPI products. I'm sure I don't need to reinvent the wheel on this, so how do you guys treat these hard-to-access inner structures? Or, my new painting motto, WWBD (What Would Barry Do?)