2100 vs 4000

[Adamizer]

I’ve been using SPI production clear in my shop since 2019, I’ve probably sprayed about 50-60 gallons of of it in 4 years, it has always treated me well. I have a second gen dodge that I’m redoing for a customer and figured I’d try universal. I sprayed some on 3 different jobs earlier this week just to get the hang of it….. I think this may be my new everyday clear. It sprays nicer than 2100 especially in the cold and buffs better, ( I’ve always had to buff 2100 twice, not sure why)

Other than cost, Any reason that I shouldn’t switch to using universal vs production on every job?

Why do I need to buff 2100 twice? I’ve tried different compounds pads and sand up to 3k…. Always have to buff it about 6hrs later and it’s good

Why does universal spray nicer than production when it’s a higher solids?

Any input is much appreciated!

 

[El Toro]

I use Production clear for the evey day collision jobs and it works great. I feel the Universal clear may be a bit slower and softer for what i do. Euro on everything else. All the SPI clears will work . Most of my jobs I do denib and buff but don't have to buff twice?

 

[Barry]

Adamizer,
You asked a loaded question and the question that is the hardest one to answer.
Is there a right answer?
No, it is what fits your shop and your spraying technique.
100s of shops over the years when I get this question my answer is to try all of the clears and what one you like best is the right answer. Next time try the 5000, as adding a reducer (a must) does two things, makes it cheaper and a little more friendly to spray.

Re-buffing the production clear twice.
My guess is frist buffing step aka step one
Speed up the buffer speed only on first step, it should cut you first step buffing time in half and burn out the solvents that are moving.
Set buffer around 3000 rpm of course second step is less.

 

[Adamizer]

Adamizer,
You asked a loaded question and the question that is the hardest one to answer.
Is there a right answer?
No, it is what fits your shop and your spraying technique.
100s of shops over the years when I get this question my answer is to try all of the clears and what one you like best is the right answer. Next time try the 5000, as adding a reducer (a must) does two things, makes it cheaper and a little more friendly to spray.

Re-buffing the production clear twice.
My guess is frist buffing step aka step one
Speed up the buffer speed only on first step, it should cut you first step buffing time in half and burn out the solvents that are moving.
Set buffer around 3000 rpm of course second step is less.

I tried 5000 when I first started using SPI, I didn’t really like it as much as 2100. That was also 4 years ago, so I may give it another shot.
As for the buffing, I will try that, iusally started buffing at 1200 rpm

 

[Barry]

I tried 5000 when I first started using SPI, I didn’t really like it as much as 2100. That was also 4 years ago, so I may give it another shot.
As for the buffing, I will try that, iusally started buffing at 1200 rpm

Ok, that is the problem, you're not burning solvent out but warming up so they are moving. If I buff I start at number 3 or 4 depending on buffer.
2nd step and finer pad I'm around 2 on either buffer.
If I go to a 3rd step then I'm about 1200 like a detailer would be.
Just me but I only use wool pads, just what I like if this makes a difference.

 

[AAE]

Ok, that is the problem, you're not burning solvent out but warming up so they are moving. If I buff I start at number 3 or 4 depending on buffer.
2nd step and finer pad I'm around 2 on either buffer.
If I go to a 3rd step then I'm about 1200 like a detailer would be.
Just me but I only use wool pads, just what I like if this makes a difference.

Barry, can you give an estimated RPM to those buffer settings?
(Some might get this quote): My buffer has a dial that goes to 10. But, I like to turn it up to 11.

 

[Chris_Hamilton]

Barry, can you give an estimated RPM to those buffer settings?
(Some might get this quote): My buffer has a dial that goes to 10. But, I like to turn it up to 11.

 

[Barry]

One of mine if 2 says 2000, 4 says 4000

So we can only guess.

 

[AAE]

Such a funny movie.

 

[crashtech]

I'm scared to death to buff that fast. It's certainly not for someone without more than a few hours behind a buffing wheel.

 

[Chris_Hamilton]

I'm scared to death to buff that fast. It's certainly not for someone without more than a few hours behind a buffing wheel.

Most definitely not advice for someone new to buffing. I'm also scared to buff that fast. 3K is nearly max speed on my buffer. I do understand why Barry gave the advice though. Higher speed, higher surface temps, help suck out the remaining solvent faster. Don't think I would be brave enough to try it though.

I'm confused as to the root of the problem. I'm assuming the 2100 is getting buffed just a few hours after spraying it? Lot of solvent still in it I would assume so as it continues to cure it's dying back after buffing? Waiting longer before buffing not possible?

Personally I like the 5000 for production work. Sprays great, lays out like glass if shot correctly and cures quickly. 4000 (UV) is awesome but it's not as quick. 2100 is a good clear but I always preferred 5000 for production. Might want to give it a shot again. The speed clear would be another good option for you if time is really a big factor.

 

[Adamizer]

Most definitely not advice for someone new to buffing. I'm also scared to buff that fast. 3K is nearly max speed on my buffer. I do understand why Barry gave the advice though. Higher speed, higher surface temps, help suck out the remaining solvent faster. Don't think I would be brave enough to try it though.

I'm confused as to the root of the problem. I'm assuming the 2100 is getting buffed just a few hours after spraying it? Lot of solvent still in it I would assume so as it continues to cure it's dying back after buffing? Waiting longer before buffing not possible?

Personally I like the 5000 for production work. Sprays great, lays out like glass if shot correctly and cures quickly. 4000 (UV) is awesome but it's not as quick. 2100 is a good clear but I always preferred 5000 for production. Might want to give it a shot again. The speed clear would be another good option for you if time is really a big factor.

I always wait at least 12 hours to buff usually it’s more like 18-24 I usually use either fast or medium activator, rarely use slow but same results every time. I will try the euro sometime soon