57 Chevy

F

fakky

Promoted Users
Hey guys
Have a 57 chevy tha has been skimmed (most likely) and primed.
It's been in my carport for 3 years whilst I work on her on weekends.
She's basically ready to drive now and at some point in coming months Im going to attempt first paint job with a HVLP turbine system.

This is how I bought it. Outside hasn't really changed. Been in carport since.
RsQBSq3l.jpg


Here's some problem areas. (Pinholes).
ombtVFpl.jpg


So my rough plan of attack aty this stage is to scuff everything back with 150 and then 400 grit. The problem areas basically to metal.
Then hit it with SPI Epoxy followed by SPI high build primer. DA sand and block sand and then finish with SPI BLack and clear. Im looking for a low gloss almost matt finish in black.

So its a panel truck (bigger than regular truck) - but I will be using a HVLP turbine in Florida - so should have less overspray and wasteage. Here's what I think I need;


#6620-1 Black Epoxy Primer - Gallon 103.90
#6700-1 Epoxy Activator - Gallon 103.90

#8000-1 Gray High Build Primer - Gallon 133.67
#7001-4 High Build Activator - Quart 40.96

#2201-1 Flat Black Single Stage Gallon 4:1, 6:1 or 8:1 -> $177 [Or ...... what is #2010-1 Black Black Base Gallon 1:1 175.00 ???? ]
#2103-4 Slow Activator - Quart 36.91

Universal Clear 1:1 4.4 VOC
#4000-1 Universal Clear - Gallon 125.96
#4003-4 Slow Activator - Quart 41.82 x4 $168


So think that brings me to around $892 + tax/shiiping whatever to Florida.

Some questions .... :)
First time painter - so this isn't going to be any show car and is going to have problems. Should I shortcut this in anyway given I only need a 7/10 car that is protected and will last. i.e Something that the average guy looks at and says nice and clean. It will be a DD.

Anything else in approach ? Tips generally and tips since using turbine system with this paint.

thanks !!
 
dhutton01 said:
Somewhere on here is an epic thread of a guy trying to use a turbine sprayer. It did not go well if I remember right.

Don
Click to expand...
Not too worried about the turbine. Did enough research on various build threads to see the quality that it will be fine as long as I get teh reducer ratio correct.

Really more about the paint at this stage. Any cheaper way to do this with SPI ...... I guess if its as single stage I can theoretically blow the clear ..... but :) Basically just deciding going the full kirker rote for around $500 or the SPI route at $900. Given it is a turbine system and 1st time painting .......
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
If there are problem areas you can see, there are problem areas you cannot. I promise that is the case. If it's something you want to look nice and last, take the whole thing to metal and start again.
Click to expand...

Good point ..... I assumed once I started cutting back I would be able to see where other issues may be ..... its really not bad -- the worst of it is the pinholes on the front head as above .......
at end of day not the end of the world ......... a weekend stripping it back ... epoxy and sealer during the week and blocking ... then paint on weekend .... its just paint ..... if it doesnt last.
 
What kind of primer has been protecting it for 3+ years, and what kind of work is it hiding? Hard to say what is ready to break through to the surface, I would strip it to metal, as Chris suggested.
 
chevman said:
What kind of primer has been protecting it for 3+ years, and what kind of work is it hiding? Hard to say what is ready to break through to the surface, I would strip it to metal, as Chris suggested.
Click to expand...

ok. I'll do that - best to do via DA or chemical or both ?

The paint I listed above - go with that post strip back ?
 
When you sand that area in the picture, it will give you a good idea of what is under the rest of the primer. Do a panel or two at a time, and get epoxy on it. Normally, I would strip that with 8" 80# paper on a variable speed buffer. The chemicals would just make a mess, plus the stuff they sell now is garbage.
 
fakky said:
Really more about the paint at this stage. Any cheaper way to do this with SPI ...... I guess if its as single stage I can theoretically blow the clear ..... but :) Basically just deciding going the full kirker rote for around $500 or the SPI route at $900. Given it is a turbine system and 1st time painting .......
Click to expand...
How much help will you get from Kirker? These guys will help you through out the whole process, from metal work to buffing.
 
fakky said:
Not too worried about the turbine. Did enough research on various build threads to see the quality that it will be fine as long as I get teh reducer ratio correct.

Really more about the paint at this stage. Any cheaper way to do this with SPI ...... I guess if its as single stage I can theoretically blow the clear ..... but :) Basically just deciding going the full kirker rote for around $500 or the SPI route at $900. Given it is a turbine system and 1st time painting .......
Click to expand...
Well here’s at least one thread where there was an epoxy adhesion issue due to inadequate atomization of the epoxy.

Cold weather application - did it adhere correctly?

Hi all, This is my first post. I am new to painting and I have a question about cold weather application of SPI epoxy primer. Over the winter I was prepping floor pans for installation in my car. Being my first time really spraying paint of any kind on this car I figured floor pans would be a...
www.spiuserforum.com

The other one that I’m thinking about was an issue with solvent pop on the clear, again due to inadequate atomization.

As far as Kirker vs SPI, that decision should be a no brainer for someone who does the level of research that you did on turbines....

Don
 
THis is the thread that dhutton referred to earlier I think.

Need help, nonstop dieback on clear no matter what I do.

Hey guys, I need some help because i'm so frustrated i'm about to throw my paint equipment out the window! Here is alittle background. I have a business making polyurethane auto body products. I went out and purchased a high end turbine system Fuji Q5 5 stage turbine 9.5PSI. So far its been...
www.spiuserforum.com
 
chevman said:
How much help will you get from Kirker? These guys will help you through out the whole process, from metal work to buffing.
Click to expand...

The only reason for mentioned kirker on a SPI thread was obviously cost. I dont really expect too much help from any vendor ...... I try to work it out myself along with forums as generally (know nothing about paint vendors ) they just dont have time to be too helpful. eg Taught myself to weld by forums not by calling miller :)

Do you guys think for shooting my first time --- $900 is worth doing it really ......... and also is this enough paint for the panel truck.
 
Chris_Hamilton said:
THis is the thread that dhutton referred to earlier I think.
[/URL]
Click to expand...
Thanks i just read it -- seemed he said he had no problems with anything but clear ....... and then decided teh clear he has was defective.

Heres's a good thread on turbines for auto. I went this route as I move a lot and can use the turbine for other things. Not looking to be a pro painter just good enough to make a car look decent at 5 feet. Who knows when I get older.

www.jalopyjournal.com

Technical - Turbine paint system for primer

Hi. I am working on my first restoration. I want to strip the paint off of the car and take care of all of the body work and priming. I will then take...
www.jalopyjournal.com www.jalopyjournal.com

www.jalopyjournal.com

HVLP Turbine Paint Systems

Has anyone here used a TP Tools HVLP Turbine paint system to paint their car or truck? I am seriously thinking about buying one of these systems....
www.jalopyjournal.com www.jalopyjournal.com

A lot are SS applications ........ but still good enough for the girls I run with as my old man says.
 
In that thread the dieback and solvent pop was because of the warm air of the turbine. OP of that thread eventually switched to a conventional gun and compressor. Re-read that thread again as their is valuable info there applicable to you.
One of the biggest drawbacks to a turbine is the warm/hot air that is used to atomize the material. If you use one, you need to use 1 to 2 steps slower products than what you would use with a conventional gun. If you were spraying at 75 degrees you would want to use the absolute slowest reducer and activators that you could get for a particular product.

If there were not big drawbacks to using turbine systems you would see them in collision shops as well as restoration shops. No one (professionals) uses them in the automotive refinishing industry. Other Industries yes but not in ours. Just my personal experiences I've worked at something like 11 shops over the last 30 years in various places in the US, and I have never seen one in use, nor heard of anyone using them except hobbyists.

That being said it doesn't sound like you have unreasonably high expectations for your project so it may work out OK for you. Hope it does.:)
 
Thanks Chris.
These were the only comments I could pull from the OP of that thread.

"
After alot of testing i'm 100% certain it is the other companies clear. I did every variable possible. I shot the clear with a regular HVLP gun and same problem happened. That eliminated the turbine issue.

Well I got to the bottom of the issue I was having. It was simply defective crappy clearcoat. I should have not ignored the recommendations I was given to use the SPI clear.
"

Anyway - didn't come here to start a thread on why people should use a turbine. I did my research and I know its not the best method but it suits my situation is all. I understand if it was the way to do it thats what shops would be using.
Really I'm fully aware that any problems with the paint job I do 1st time are 99.9% going to be mine ..... technique and prep. Not the product. So having said that Im back to the original question of why I started this thread ....

Is it worth spending the $900 bucks on the list of paint given my parameters as a first time painter ........
Will that list (eg 4:1 or 6:1 black) be enough to cover the vehicle in the pic.
Any other tips ?
 
Well there are many first timers (at one time:)) here who have done outstanding jobs. Many of us here are willing to help. Plus there is an amazing amount of true, correct, information on this forum. If you read something here you can count on it being true. This isn't like typical Body and Paint subsections in other forums where some correct info is given but lots of misinformation is tossed around.

Looking at your list forget the flat black if you are going to clear it. The Matte black is a standalone product for a matte type finish. If that's what you are going for you do not clear it. If you are planning on a Basecoat/clearcoat job, the black base is what you want. The short answer to "is that enough product?" probably not.
I would talk to Barry either by PM or text him on the SPI Tech Line. Barry is the Founder/Owner of SPI and a terrific guy that loves to help guys out. He encounters situations like your everyday and can guide you in the right direction.
One more thing, the really cheap paint is really cheap paint. Not worth the effort that is required to do a nice job. It generally has poor coverage (so you have to use more) doesn't spray as well and doesn't last anywhere near as long. SPI is the equivalent (or better) of the finest products on the market. Equal to stuff that costs twice as much. Diamont, Glasurit, Standox, etc.

Link to Barry's profile here. http://www.spiuserforum.com/index.php?members/barry.3/
SPI Tech Line: 404-307-9740
What other Company has a 7 day a week tech line manned by the Owner of the Company???? Customer Service at SPI is outstanding.
 
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After much thought here is my comments.
You have a rare truck there. Whatever amount of money spent the truck is worthy of it. I can't remember the last time I saw one of these 55-59 series of panel trucks in person.
They aren't many left. Most were used up and scrapped. I like your panel and look forward to seeing it finished. You will only get the best advice here.
 
fakky said:
Is it worth spending the $900 bucks on the list of paint given my parameters as a first time painter
Click to expand...
Looking at your list, I can't see getting that amount of product from Kirker or anyone else for $500. Even if you can, is it worth doing all that labor getting it ready and then spraying an inferior system to save $400? If you want to go cheap, spray 2-3 coats of epoxy induced overnight and leave it at that. You may be surprised how good it looks.
 
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