nice work dean. in texas we have the same thing. they are labled as antique vehicle. over 25yrs. and a plate is (was last time i got) 50 dollars and good for 5yrs. no inspection required. the bad thing, i hope they change is that say the period is from 2020-2025. if you buy the plate in 2023. you only have 2 years on it and have to renew in 2025. they are also meant for car shows, parades or to and from a repair shop only, but ive never known anyone to get a ticket over antique plate. most cops wave and give thumbs up to the cars instead of pulling them over. my only gripe is that they are labeled antique plate. a car from the 60s isnt antique IMO, its classic. an antique would be a car from the 20s 30s and 40s. texas does have classic plates but they still require inspection. so paying extra to have the word "classic" on the plate. my 2000 lincoln is 1 year away from qualifying for antique plates lolOnly took 3 days to get the bed trim on. Next car, I'm listening to @RosharonRooster and getting factory trim reworked. This reproduction stuff is too hard.
Had to lie, cheat and steal to make it work, but I made it work and it is "acceptable."
Aficionados of this car will spot the "cheat." For the rest, if you don't see it, I ain't telling
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And, got my new license plate from the DMV and went ahead and mounted it, and the backup camera.
Of course, the backup camera bracket wouldn't mount behind the plate and looked bad.
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so, did some creative "bracket surgery" and made it work the way I wanted. Looks much better I think.
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Notice the "collector vehicle" plate. Cool thing here in Washington State, you can get this for cars over 25 years old. $125 one-time fee and then never have to renew the tabs again. Nice!
Working on installing the side windows with a "one-piece vent window delete kit."
As @123pugsy said, it is "fiddly."
And realized I had parts that needed to be blasted and painted, so going slowly.
And I'm adding power windows and power door locks, so even more "fiddly."
I knew all along I would have to get wires into the doors and thought "I'll deal with that when I need to." Now I need to and it would have been much easier with doors off. Next car I'll know better . . .
But got it done.
BTW, the nylon/polymer wire loom from Summit Racing is good stuff. Much better than the crappy plastic stuff from retail auto parts stores, and GM.
And this rubber grommet kit from Summit has been invaluable.
**I don't know what that weird brown color in the pic is. Not rust. A lighting/camera thing.
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Mayyyybe a tiny dabble of dielectric grease or vaseline..Strained my back and lost a week on the car. Frustrating, but I know there are others worse off so try to stay thankful and positive.
Decided to put door seals on and fine tune doors before fine tuning windows. Everything affects everything . . .
Last night I got VERY frustrated that these nylon posts wouldn't go in their holes, no matter what I tried.
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Gave up for the night and decided to make a fresh try again today.
Dang it, these fit just fine during test fitting before paint . . .
Oh, 7 coats of epoxy/base/clear, maybe that matters.
Reamed the holes with a chainsaw file and all is well.
This hobby will keep me humble.
On my 60, the holes on the door were too big for the push ins. So I used washers . Metric M4 washers were the only ones I could find that would work. I've had to do this before. Someone needs to tell these companies making this stuff that they suckStrained my back and lost a week on the car. Frustrating, but I know there are others worse off so try to stay thankful and positive.
Decided to put door seals on and fine tune doors before fine tuning windows. Everything affects everything . . .
Last night I got VERY frustrated that these nylon posts wouldn't go in their holes, no matter what I tried.
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Gave up for the night and decided to make a fresh try again today.
Dang it, these fit just fine during test fitting before paint . . .
Oh, 7 coats of epoxy/base/clear, maybe that matters.
Reamed the holes with a chainsaw file and all is well.
This hobby will keep me humble.
Sounds like a life well lived, and on to his reward. That's the good stuff!I buried my last uncle yesterday. He was 70, had a relationship with Christ, married his high school sweetheart with her parents blessing, 51 years together.
So we are thankful to continue this journey…no matter the difficulty or frustration.
Some leave a mess of money. ( certainly not me, I’m a beggar sharing bread)
Some leave a mess…..
I’m hopeful to leave a mess that can leave under its own power and draw a thumbs up from passersby.
Sorry for the tangent.
Thanks to Dean for the Black Diamond blocks that gave me the opportunity to try to get this ship of Theseus straight and on with its journey.
Go Dean
I wonder if the petroleum content is detrimental?Got the passenger door "one-piece window" kit, power window regulator, and power door lock in and working.
@123pugsy called it "fiddly." That is just Canadian good manners. It was, as we Americans say, a total "PITA!"
But, the one side is in and working good. And I like the clean look without the vent windows. Drivers side will still be hard, but now I know all the tricks.
FYI, a lot of guys use white lithium grease on window regulators etc. The company that provided the one-piece kit recommended a spray on grease made by WD-40. It is good stuff, highly recommended.
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Good stuff. I was a might concerned when I read the little plastic doohickeys were trying your patience so much, thinking the glass would be thrown across the shop. But you stuck with it. Right on.
Just hope they roll up OK in the wind. The wind sucks them outwards as they are going up. Mine always work fine when going slow like at the drive thru. Then again, I rarely need to open my windows.
The power regulators in my kit are from Nu Relics and their instructions recommended high temp wheel bearing grease, which is petroleum based.I wonder if the petroleum content is detrimental?
Seems like I remember talking to the guy that owns Nu Relics and the recommended lube was silicone but it’s pure…no petroleum distillates.
Maybe I’m wrong…..I couldn’t find it local. It was online only.
I suppose that way nobody will mistake it for a Ranchero?Mike the upolstery guy is making progress on the BMW seats.
I wanted the el Camino script embroidered on the seat back. It was hard to find a vector file of that, which the embroidery machine needs, but finally found a guy on Fivver who created it with correct font.
Here is a sample on some scrap leather. I think it is good.
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Looking forward to seeing the seats fully done!
Think this will look good with the bow tie logo behind it on the package tray.
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